"Tractor" diary. Elgrand from Siberia. E50.

[WhatsThisFor]

Spot on.

 

[ELSib]

konichiwa!!
So....
Dismantled the starter and oil pressure sensor..
I screwed the hour indicator into the injection pump.

New item by Boris TheBlade

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The Bible says - you need to rotate the pulley 100 degrees counterclockwise from the TDC position of the 1st cylinder (TDC - top dead center). Then rotate the pulley clockwise until the indicator needle stops (approximately 20 degrees before TDC). Set the value on the indicator to 0 and rotate the pulley to TDC. The value should be 0.275mm +/-0.02mm.
I did everything by the book.
if the value is greater, then we move the injection pump towards the engine, if it is less, then we move it away from the engine.
Angles!
how to find out how much 100 degrees is??as I did - I measured the diameter of the pulley = 148mm. The formula for circumference is 2piR = 2x3.14x148mm/2 = 464.72mm.
1 degree = 2piR/360 degrees = 464.72/360 = 1.29 mm.
100 degrees = 1.29mm x 100 = 129mm.
I cut the electrical tape to the required length, apply it to the pulley and mark the corner.
Ahead is setting up the governor using the scanner. BUT!!
After all the work, a short circuit was discovered in the wiring.
A new chapter begins......
PS.how to understand that the first cylinder is at TDC?? The answer is in the Bible - you need to combine the risks on the pulley and on the block. Also, the marks must match on the injection pump gear. If the injection pump gear does not match, you need to make one turnover of the pulley clockwise.

 

[WhatsThisFor]

You are now more than half way down the Rabbit Hole.

I could not use the marks from the bottom pulley wheel against the marks on the casing to determine number 1 at TDC as the pulley wheel is known to slip on the harmonic deadener, so the marks were unreliable.

I had to go down the long route to time it up changing the chain whilst i was there.







With the 4M40 pump being mechanical any deviation from the bible means - do it again.

 

[ELSib]

You are now more than half way down the Rabbit Hole.

I could not use the marks from the bottom pulley wheel against the marks on the casing to determine number 1 at TDC as the pulley wheel is known to slip on the harmonic deadener, so the marks were unreliable.

I had to go down the long route to time it up changing the chain whilst i was there.


View attachment 100362

View attachment 100361
View attachment 100363

With the 4M40 pump being mechanical any deviation from the bible means - do it again.

Feature of 4M40)))QD32 does not have a chain or belt, just gears + no dampers, everything is as simple as possible)Your photos are like a scientific dissertation))))The most reliable way is to remove the valve covers and look at the valve lifter cams))

 

[ELSib]

Super challenge from Elgrand..Oil pressure sensor.... I decided to change the oil pressure sensor, since it was covered in oil leaks and the entire part of the engine was covered with a layer of oil from below..I thought and hoped that I just needed to unscrew the old sensor and screw in the new one. I was wrong. The problem was in the thread and when trying to screw in a new sensor, the thread was destroyed...New challenges. Remove all attachments from the right side of the engine. Unscrew the aluminum plate with oil channels. Make a bolt with a larger through thread, and also make a thread in the plate. Cut a thread in the bolt for the oil pressure sensor.
Sounds pretty simple)))

 

[JagoGell]

You've certainly got some tricky work there ... you can do it, as you seem to be a priest of the QD32 who preaches the e50 bible and practice what you preach

 

[ELSib]

Here is the plate... I will dismantle this.

New item by Boris TheBlade

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[WhatsThisFor]

Remember the thread for the oil pressure sensor is UNF fine.

MAYBE consider taping and plugging original hole with standard thread and bolt, then take your oil pressure reading from something like this, also easy option to add oil pressure gauge for safety from one of many outlets.

 

[ELSib]

Remember the thread for the oil pressure sensor is UNF fine.

MAYBE consider taping and plugging original hole with standard thread and bolt, then take your oil pressure reading from something like this, also easy option to add oil pressure gauge for safety from one of many outlets.

View attachment 100416

Thank you). I've already thought about this. I found a used part at a reasonable price.. And what to plug it in.. Drilling something means I need to dismantle it so that the chips don’t get into the oil. In any case, dismantle.. I read this is the oil heat exchanger, that is, it is necessary to drain the antifreeze from the system..

 

[WeldHog]

Just going through your thread and had an idea of buying diesel e50, I could do it and would be happy to work on that big diesel, but then checked the prices and hot import from Japan is £10k/2001. Ooofffft! I guess I’ll be looking at different diesels then

Thanks for sharing your journey with us.

 

[ELSib]

Just going through your thread and had an idea of buying diesel e50, I could do it and would be happy to work on that big diesel, but then checked the prices and hot import from Japan is £10k/2001. Ooofffft! I guess I’ll be looking at different diesels then

Thanks for sharing your journey with us.

About the diesel engine QD32. This is an incredibly reliable engine and with low mileage over the course of a year, I can confidently say that it will last a very long time... just like its brothers TD42, TD27, SD33...

 

[ELSib]

I finally received the heat exchanger and the oil filter mounting bracket. To install the heat exchanger, we had to re-dismantle the vacuum pump, starter, and fuel injection pump. It took about 2 hours to put everything back together and set up the injection pump (pretty fast).

New item by Boris TheBlade

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New item by Boris TheBlade

photos.app.goo.gl

New item by Boris TheBlade

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The oil supply pipe to the turbine was replaced with a high pressure hose.I collected everything, filled in new oil, new antifreeze.

New item by Boris TheBlade

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The diesel engine started up and purred..
Ahead is replacing the valve stem seals and adjusting the valve clearances.

 

[WeldHog]

Curious about the engine, is there an EGR valve if so, do you have it blanked?

 

[ELSib]

Curious about the engine, is there an EGR valve if so, do you have it blanked?

The QD32 has a very simple EGR system. There is a valve for supplying exhaust gases to the intake manifold, and a valve that shuts off the air supply proportionally.BUT I deleted this case) No electronics, everything is controlled by vacuum.

 

[WeldHog]

That’s why I like older diesels.

newer ones/ after 2010 are all have sensors around EGR and coolant/oil lines connected.
Absolute pigs to work on.


Below is a 2015 Diesel with 60k miles on the clock.


Edit: and that’s only intake elbow past the ‘throttle’, I can only imagine how the intake and valves look like. That’s why I’m getting water/methanol to clean this sh|t.

 

[ELSib]

That’s why I like older diesels.

newer ones/ after 2010 are all have sensors around EGR and coolant/oil lines connected.
Absolute pigs to work on.


Below is a 2015 Diesel with 60k miles on the clock.


Edit: and that’s only intake elbow past the ‘throttle’, I can only imagine how the intake and valves look like. That’s why I’m getting water/methanol to clean this sh|t.

Fuel quality)
When I removed the EGR tube, it was simply clogged.
May Greta Tumberg forgive me, but I am against the EGR on a diesel engine)

 

[WeldHog]

True, I’m old enough to remember how proper diesel smelled like. What we have now is mixes, refined and full of all sorts of detergents, that might clean your fuel rail but shouldn’t be burned, also low sulphur so there’s no good lubrication on piston/rings/cylinder wall.

DPF itself is good enough and with adblue/DEF it’s cleaner than most petrol engines.

EGR as mentioned (cooling/ efficiency(lower burned volume) can be replaced with water methanol injection , which will have same effect (less NOx) .

I would never touch the DPF as it does the job of keeping my backside clean and smelling good



Do you add two stroke oil to your diesel? I would suggest to do it, your piston rings will thank you. Would not do it on modern diesels but older ones have no issue with it.

 

[JagoGell]

True, I’m old enough to remember how proper diesel smelled like. What we have now is mixes, refined and full of all sorts of detergents, that might clean your fuel rail but shouldn’t be burned, also low sulphur so there’s no good lubrication on piston/rings/cylinder wall.

DPF itself is good enough and with adblue/DEF it’s cleaner than most petrol engines.

EGR as mentioned (cooling/ efficiency(lower burned volume) can be replaced with water methanol injection , which will have same effect (less NOx) .

I would never touch the DPF as it does the job of keeping my backside clean and smelling good



Do you add two stroke oil to your diesel? I would suggest to do it, your piston rings will thank you. Would not do it on modern diesels but older ones have no issue with it.

I've heard of mixing 2-stroke for running kerosene, also seen video how to of water/methanol injection, but didn't think about 2-stroke for low sulphur derv.

I was wondering about the possibility of kero mix with veg oil of varying ratios depending on time of year, as derv prices climb ever upwards.

 

[WeldHog]

I mean older diesel will run on about anything, even a veg oil/white spirit to thin it.

Modern diesel are a bit flaky and sensitive. Soy latte drinking equivalent of engines.

 

[WhatsThisFor]

Some one I know who lives in Zimbabwe buys Kerosene delivered in to a 1000 litre bunded container, then adds 5% of telus32 hydraulic oil and puts it in his diesel X5 - he says it runs better than it does on pump diesel.

He has not had the X5 for too long but he ran a 3.2 Pajero for 130,000 miles with no ill effects.

Prices change all the time with Boilerjuice giving an up to date price - 40p a litre in Zimbabwe apparently.

Obviously you can’t use it in your car over here as it is illegal.