If you are struggling getting your dipstick out to check the CVT level look at the video below. The Elgrand catch goes towards the front rather than the back however it shows it pretty well.
Hi All,
Completed the CVT fluid change a few weeks ago including the CVT fluid filter.
There are some photos of the fluid and filter here -
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AL1C0PCxL7Yk1NlU918uqMLmLq0ZRP-4?usp=sharing
I followed a combo of the 2014 Quest service manual and the method on e52lowdown
The service guide is here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/108bDEJ2Z132yW9Z-ISfX9KeJmjbzyFll/view?usp=sharing
Refer to page 150.
The e52lowdown walkthrough is here
https://www.e52lowdown.com/2022/04/Elgrand-e52-cvt-service-part-1-intro.html
NB depending on the source document it may reference a charging tube for refilling. My 2010 car did not have one of these, I think they came in around 2014
Parts
The parts used were
1 x 216361XE0A CVT filter hose - didnt end up using this as its not fun to fit and my hoses appeared in good condition
2 x 0155800451 hose clamp - these are meant to be replaced when replacing the filter
1 x 31726-1XE0A - CVT Filter
4 x Kle52-00004 - NS3 Fluid (4 x 4L). You need around 13L in total and per advice from Nissan spare parts specialist NS3 is the recommended fluid and half the price of NS2
Process
Take car for drive for 10 - 20 minutes to get some heat in the fluid
With the engine running and fluid warm check the level.
To remove the dipstick a small screwdriver may be required to push the retaining clip in. I have posted a link to a video on this somewhere.
Check the fluid level, with the engine running, is between the top and bottom of the hatched part of the dipstick. This section is for a hot reading, the other notches are for a cold reading.
Get the fluid to the correct level first. eg top it up if required.
turn engine off.
Put the car on 4 axle stands or a hoist so its level otherwise the fluids will not drain as expected. You may get less fluid out. Definitely do not fill unless the car is level.
Put on gloves, the fluid is warm and messy and not good for skin
Put down a large drip tray as the fluid will follow the spines in the gearbox and not always drip where you want.
Put a oil pan capable of holding more than 5L fluid under the drain plug.
You need a 10mm hex head/allen key to remove the drain plug. Mine was on stupidly tight and needed a spanner over the end of the allen key. I recommend you get a 10mm socket on a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar to remove.
Turn it a few times and fluid will fall from the sky (or at least the drain plug)
Let it drain for about 10 minutes. The transmission holds over 10 L of fluid however around 4.3L should come out via the drain.
Put the plug back in
Pour the fluid into a measuring container so you know exactly how much to put back in.
If you are changing the transimission filter (recommended)
I changed the filter after the first drain of the transmission.
To change the filter you need to remove the wheel and inner guard liners. There are 3 of these and they are a mixture of pop out clips, torx and philips head screws in no particular order. The plastic clips are likely brittle so be gentle. Ideally have a spares.
The filter is 3 or 4 x12 or 14mm bolts and are pretty easy to remove. The hose clamps are awkward if factory fitted as they face towards the sky and getting hose clamp pliers on them is irritating however the whole process was probably about 30 minutes.
Ensure you have a drip tray and rags handy as the hoses will leak fluid even after draining the gearbox.
I swapped out just the filter and the direct attached hose clamps as it all looked in good condition.
Push the hoses onto the new filter up to the black dots and slide the hose clamps back into place.
Once you have completed this and have a container full of fluid do the following:
Pour new fluid in from a sealed container. Use the exact same amount that you drained out. ie measure it. It must be pretty close or the levels will not be correct.
Its filled via the dipstick tube so you need a narrow-ish funnel and put rags around the base of the funnel to hold it up and to catch any spills.
Once up to the correct level (it must be because you ensured you had the correct level to start and you replaced what you drained exactly) jump into the car whilst still on the axle stands, start the car, keeping the brakes on, you will need to spend 2 minutes moving between all the gears spending 10 seconds in each. ie P 10 secs, R 10 secs, N 10 secs, D 10 secs and repeat.
This is to move fluid through the gearbox and mix old with new
Flush the fluid twice more for a total of three times following the same process. This should cycle out 80-90% of the old 10L or so of fluid. Nissan themselves can do a full flush however they use a pump and some presumably expensive equipment.
For reference I drained 4.3L 1st pass, 4.1 second and 4.2 third. The variations are probably due to cooling fluid and how long I let it drain. The second pass I only waited about 5 minutes.
Ideally you then need to reset the transmission control module CVT fluid deterioration counter using an ODB-II tool such as
https://nisscan.com/product/nds-iii-windows-pc/?v=6cc98ba2045f
This is required so the electronics know the gearbox has nice shiny new fluid and depending on which conspiracy site you read it will adjust how it operates or merely reset the counter and start counting wear on the fluid so you know when to replace again.
Take it for a drive for 20 minutes and confirm it works ok, when you return check about 20 minutes later for any leaks and check the fluid levels about 5 minutes after you return to ensure they are correct
Guidance on how often to change the fluid varies. The broadish consenus is every 60,000 km or three or so years.
It took about 3 hours from go to whoa and I wasnt exactly rushing things. An experienced person with proper tools could probably do in 90 minutes. Jackstands and a trolley jack take an annoying amount of time and effort to use.
