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Boot trouble

My boot has decided to lock and not want to open again. It's a strange one had it for few weeks now. Fine ever since. Now.

Any ideas
Mine did that
In the end I accessed the latch from inside the car.
I had to use a large screwdriver to push the latch hook up off the loop. It has worked ever since.
I find the boot lock misbehaves if there is the slightest misalignment caused by something in the way
 
I am having the same problem now is this behind the panel in the boot? Or one of the sliding doors?
Rear panel passenger side,

AiCqzhi.jpg
 
I am having the same problem now is this behind the panel in the boot? Or one of the sliding doors?
Sliding door. I could not find any issues though. Do not know what to do... what I've been doing is taking the negative from the battery and plugging it in back, and after that, it opens as normal for a couple of days.
 
Hey everyone I finally after all this time managed to get to the fuse panel to check the rear door fuse and to my surprise it wasn’t blown… so upon replacing (as in putting it back - not a new one) the fuse (and checking the others for good measure) the door now works but as has been mentioned previously this may only be a temporary fix… thanks so much to the owner who put the video on YouTube because I was barking up a whole other tree… and thanks to you all for the helping hand… the schematic diagrams really helped with the translations… have a blessed Christmas all and remember Jesus is the reason for the season… God’s blessings on all and stay safe…😊
 
Hi All, had the same boot problem. All Other doors opening and locking. Boot door not unlocking. I opened the rear panel to access the rear fuses. Eight fuses in total. I carefully removed and placed back each fuse. Guess what- rear boot door started working again. Hope this may be helpful for someone in the future.
 
Many thanks for the info on panel I shall be investigating and will let you know the outcome once again many thanks Paul
 
Just to add to the conversation here, my Elgrand boot also stopped working. The button no longer activates the electronic soft close mechanism. It simply stopped working. Cannot open boot unless pulling the manual lever from inside.
This thread helped me find the culprit - the location of the fuses behind the pane under the rear left window.
I am having exactly the same experience as many of you here - I pull out the fuse, inspect it, seems fine, replace it again (same fuse) and voila - boot mechanism working again. But it is only TEMPORARY. It works for about one week then the same problem over again. I’ve repeated this same process about 3 times in as many weeks.
I even bought a new 20a fuse and replaced it, same problem. Temporarily resets it or something.
I wonder what the permanent fix for this will be. Any ideas? I will try to avoid taking to an auto electrician.
 
Might be worth checking the connectors on the IPDM under the side window and the rear door CU under the rear door internal trim panel.

Could possibly be a fractured cable where they pass through the rubber conduits between body and door also.
 
I’m going to add another solution here.
Last weekend I was going to fit a new motor after months of procrastinating as we have a rear camping conversion and I couldn’t get my arm down to take cover off and pull lever. This was solved by a thin armed friend and I attached a webbing strap in the interim while I sourced a motor.
so … I removed inner liner of tailgate and it appears that the motor assembly is easy to remove, so 10 minutes later the new one is fitted and I push a screwdriver through the locking mechanism to simulate the door shutting and the soft close kick in (had been doing this with the old one) I pushed the open button and it’s dead. I tried this a few times with the same results, sat down and scratched my head.
At this point my attention turned to the actual switch. It’s a very simple thing, so I took it out and ran a meter over it, it read open resistance when pressed. I then got a paper clip and pushed it into the 2 terminals of the switch connector and the boot mechanism unlocked. I tried it a few times and deduced the switch was toast. I carefully took it apart (2 springs and a slider) and on the contact was a proper build up of corrosion, I cleaned that all off, put the switch back together, plugged it in and it worked!!
while reassembling the switch, I noticed that the rubber cover (that you push with your fingers) was slightly perished and had tiny splits in that water and road salt must have got through to corrode the switch.
The rubber is 15 years old, so it is to be expected. I’ve looked to see if this part is available, but it isn’t, and all the used parts seem to have the same perished rubber.
My solution is to paint it with latex, and hopefully this will seal the rubber for the next few years.
 

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Having owned 2 Estimas a while back and currently waiting for an Elgrand. I know how valuable little slices of information like this can be when it comes to very simple but massively annoying issues like this! Glad it's sorted for you.
 
Sorry to revive this old thread but I've today taken out the fuse to reset it and it worked, only to stop working again later in the day. Any ideas anyone?
 
Have you looked at the switch as mentioned in the thread?
 
I've tried removing the fuse and it resets it, but once locked, then unlocked, it forgets again and the switch won't open the boot. Any ideas guys? It's like it thinks it's already open so won't activate the motor. When I run the engine and close all doors except the boot, it shows that the boot is open on the dash, so it knows if it's open or closed. It's probably something silly, but I'm stumped
 
Might be a limit switch in the mech that's not contacting properly.
 
I've tried removing the fuse and it resets it, but once locked, then unlocked, it forgets again and the switch won't open the boot. Any ideas guys? It's like it thinks it's already open so won't activate the motor. When I run the engine and close all doors except the boot, it shows that the boot is open on the dash, so it knows if it's open or closed. It's probably something silly, but I'm stumped
still worth taking the switch out and giving it a clean just to rule it out.
 
I had the same issue, ie. if you pulled the fuse in and out the door would work for a few days. I took the door card off looking for anything loose or unplugged, couldn't see anything wrong but left the door card off anyway. So, three weeks later the door is still working. I had the thought that maybe the pressure of the door card was causing a short, or messing with one of the plugs. What I did then was unplug everything and move all the wiring inside the door. This worked. it's still working now, maybe 5 years later.
 
I had the same issue, ie. if you pulled the fuse in and out the door would work for a few days. I took the door card off looking for anything loose or unplugged, couldn't see anything wrong but left the door card off anyway. So, three weeks later the door is still working. I had the thought that maybe the pressure of the door card was causing a short, or messing with one of the plugs. What I did then was unplug everything and move all the wiring inside the door. This worked. it's still working now, maybe 5 years later.
Is the door card easy to remove? Can't really see how it comes off
 
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