• Welcome to the ElgrandOC forum.

    You will find that the majority of the forum is locked, but do not worry. You can unlock more content by registering to the forum completely free. Sign up is automatic, does not require email confirmation and is instant. Feel free to browse through the sections to see what topics have been covered before you register.
    You can register for an account by CLICKING HERE

    Once you have registered, you will unlock more of the forum content. You will not unlock all of the content until you have reached 10 posts. This is to give you an opportunity to chat to existing members and help to integrate you into the forum community.
    We are a friendly and helpful community and there is a wealth of infomation contained within the forum. Please feel free to register, introduce yourself and get to know your fellow members.

    Feel free to look at the Frequently Asked Questions section, the Meets/Events section and the Competition Section without having to register.
    We look forward to getting to know you and help you with any questions or problemd you have with your Elgrand.

Boat pics

Lpgc said:
Fitted the drive on Friday, also removed the drive leg drain plug and let the hypoid fluid drain into a bowl.

Today refilled with new fluid and fitted the reconditioned stainless prop.


View attachment 102761
Click to expand...

Looking good buddy! Loving the shiny prop! :p
 
I was undecided whether to refit the rear trim before testing the boat but decided to refit it. With the rear trim refitted it'll be OK for anyone to come with me when I first test the boat, without rear trm fitted it limits the number of seats and leaves spinning bits of engine exposed. Only partly refitted the rear trim today. Nearly forgot to mention, before fitting trim I test started the engine again then fitted the V belt that drives the raw water pump.

20240531_194137.jpg


And before doing this (the other day) I rebuilt the hyrdaulic pump for the tilt/trim. Looked all over the place for a seal/rebuild kit for this pump but it seems NLA so I bought a few sets of various sized O rings and fitted whatever O rings seemed best fit in the various positions inside the pump. Before the rebuld the boat leg/drive unit would fall over time under its own weight, now it seems to hold position :) I wouldn't have refitted rear trim before rebuilding the pump but I'm happy I've addressed any issues that might have been inside the pump now, and I did find an existing O ring that seemed a bit suspect. Before that I traced and fixed a wiring issue that saw a voltage drop to the engine's ignition-on circuit including the ignition coil and starter solenoid, the problem was the 'dead man switch' which I have currently bypassed (but might re-connect in future)... it's a safety feature where the driver connects a clip to their belt, if they fall out of the driving seat it pulls a clip out of the dead man switch which cuts the ignition and turns the engine off. I will come back to edit this post (or post again) with some pictures of rebuilding the hydraulic pump and electrical fault finding.
 
Last edited:
Lpgc said:
I was undecided whether to refit the rear trim before testing the boat but decided to refit it. With the rear trim refitted it'll be OK for anyone to come with me when I first test the boat, without rear trm fitted it limits the number of seats and leaves spinning bits of engine exposed. Only partly refitted the rear trim today. Nearly forgot to mention, before fitting trim I test started the engine again then fitted the V belt that drives the raw water pump.

View attachment 103023
Click to expand...
Well done simon
No better feeling than hearing and using an engine you’ve reconditioned yourself mate, scary and satisfying at the same time :heart_eyes:
 
Highway Dave said:
Well done simon
No better feeling than hearing and using an engine you’ve reconditioned yourself mate, scary and satisfying at the same time :heart_eyes:
Click to expand...
Very true Dave!

It does actually run though. I think I forgot to link to this video....

 
Just finished LPG conversion of an E52 Elgrand.

Hopefully tomorrow will be the boat's first test on the river Ouse, launch at Acaster Malbis slipway and have a steady cruise North up through York. But my first steps after launching will be to start the engine and let it run in the water to make sure the raw water pump is working... The engine is full of water and won't overheat quickly from a cold start but if the raw water pump isn't working the marine water cooled exhaust system will quickly overheat and cook internal rubber components, so with the engine running I'll be manually (by touch) feeling the exhuast system temperatures. If that's OK I'll next check the gear engagement (forward and reverse), I doubt there'll be a problem but the first time I removed the drive I might have pulled on the gearshift cable.

And before I can go anywhere I've got to strap the boat to the trailer and trailerboard, only done this on this boat once before and don't have a routine for it yet so takes time) and fit a couple of bolts to attach a trim panel that goes width ways across the top of the rear of the boat and hides the battery select switch etc... I wouldn't bother with the widthways trim panel just for testing but it allows a bit easier access to the boat for people that are coming with me because they can stand/sit on it when entering from the bathing platform.

I did imagine fitting a spare outboard engine I have temporarily to the boat for use in case the main engine fails etc but to do so would mean making a bracket (not easy to fit due to the inboard engine design with bathing platform) so we will have to rely on the main engine I built tomorrow... hope it doesn't break down!
 
Last edited:
Lpgc said:
Just finished LPG conversion of an E52 Elgrand.

Hopefully tomorrow will be the boat's first test on the river Ouse, launch at Acaster Malbis slipway and have a steady cruise North up through York. But my first steps after launching will be to start the engine and let it run in the water to make sure the raw water pump is working... The engine is full of water and won't overheat quickly from a cold start but if the raw water pump isn't working the marine water cooled exhaust system will quickly overheat and cook internal rubber components, so with the engine running I'll be manually (by touch) feeling the exhuast system temperatures. If that's OK I'll next check the gear engagement (forward and reverse), I doubt there'll be a problem but the first time I removed the drive I might have pulled on the gearshift cable.

And before I can go anywhere I've got to strap the boat to the trailer and trailerboard, only done this on this boat once before and don't have a routine for it yet so takes time) and fit a couple of bolts to attach a trim panel that goes width ways across the top of the rear of the boat and hides the battery select switch etc... I wouldn't bother with the widthways trim panel just for testing but it allows a bit easier access to the boat for people that are coming with me because they can stand/sit on it when entering from the bathing platform.

I did imagine fitting a spare outboard engine I have temporarily to the boat for use in case the main engine fails etc but to do so would mean making a bracket (not easy to fit due to the inboard engine design with bathing platform) so we will have to rely on the main engine I built tomorrow... hope it doesn't break down!
Click to expand...

Good luck buddy, look forward to seeing some great pics! :heart_eyes:
 
Hope it all goes the way you expect it.

Enjoy.

If it was me ( cowardly ) I would let someone else test it - too much stress for my liking. A bit like ancient times when rulers had them selves a food tester….. I would hire a boat tester.😆👍
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top