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What have you done to your Elgrand today?

Is the Pivot hard wired into the OBD port as I have a D1 Spec throttle controller which hard wired into to the OBD port and have also got a iCar Pro Bluetooth module so I can read live data on my tablet which is mounted over the factory screen.

Both work great but to use the iCar I have to disconnect the D1 Spec to plug in the iCar to the OBD port and would really like to be able to use both at the same time

I seen on another thread that you can also read live data, is this with the iCar and if so could you tell me how you have managed to connect both at once if this is what you have done.
The Pivot doesn't utilise the OBD port, it uses an interface with the throttle pedal and a loom wired into various other signal pick up points.

I read live data from the NDS2 installed on my onboard PC which shows on the front screen. The OBD connects to the PC via the usual OBD to USB cable which I've arranged to be permanently connected.
 
Even if you manage to wire it correctly to the vehicle won’t you need to code it? Be far easier to buy an aftermarket cruise and wire it in like I’ve done
I don't think so. I have the full setup manual somewhere, and as its a fairly dumb system it just gets told some params, a feedback curve and do some basic 0-100 tests and we will see..
 
Thanks for the reply.

.From the sound of it what you have is pretty much the same as me as regards live data except mine is blue tooth instead of hard wired going directly to the tablet to NDS2 installed on the tablet and I also have Real Dash installed on the tablet both of which work fine but only one at a time which I am happy with as I mainly use the Real Dash for daily driving as it looks a lot better and is customisable but can then switch to NDS2 for more detailed info as needed but at present I can only use them if not using the D1spec as it is hard wired into the ODB port and this then means I cannot plug in the iCar.

Was going to buy a OBD2 splitter with 2 female connectors so I could have the D1spec hardwired into one and the iCar into the other so will try this first.

Do you think this would work.
 
Wired the new rear bumper lights and rewired the Japanese towbar, all now working correctly complete with indicator buzzer. As I got up and started early I had time to remove the redundant Japanese TV tuner in the rear quarter and remade the original bracket to fit another fuse box, eventually to be used for extra internal lights, fridge etc, the fuses can be accessed through the 12v socket cubby in the back.

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If the D1 only uses the OBD for power supply then a splitter should work. Which pins of the OBD does it use? If it also picks up Canbus signals then a splitter won't work.

Alternatively, if the OBD is actually only for power then you could wire into another 12v source or wire directly to the loom on the rear of the connector and ditch the OBD plug.
Thanks for the reply.

.From the sound of it what you have is pretty much the same as me as regards live data except mine is blue tooth instead of hard wired going directly to the tablet to NDS2 installed on the tablet and I also have Real Dash installed on the tablet both of which work fine but only one at a time which I am happy with as I mainly use the Real Dash for daily driving as it looks a lot better and is customisable but can then switch to NDS2 for more detailed info as needed but at present I can only use them if not using the D1spec as it is hard wired into the ODB port and this then means I cannot plug in the iCar.

Was going to buy a OBD2 splitter with 2 female connectors so I could have the D1spec hardwired into one and the iCar into the other so will try this first.

Do you think this would work.
 
Pretty certain that it is not picking up Canbus and is only for power and I think is wired into pins 4 and 16

Before I start wiring in any where else I think I will get a splitter ordered from Alexpress as they are only a couple of pounds or so so no big deal if it does not work and fairly certain that I can hide up behind the dash without too many problems.

Thanks for your help
 
Pin 16 is 12v and pin 4 is ground so just for power. It's battery 12v on the OBD so always connected regardless of ignition switch position.
 
Thing is , arthritis in the hands only allows for minutes at a time now so it takes a while.

I had a stroke a couple of years ago my left hand fingers don't always do what I want them to do and have a problem gripping with them
Arthritis for me. I hate it when the fingers lock up into a claw. Feet and knees have a touch as well : unamused:
 
Arthritis for me. I hate it when the fingers lock up into a claw. Feet and knees have a touch as well
Mine have started locking in the outstretched position , I’m sure I’m going to brake one trying to get it back one day lol, bloody painful , never thought it possible to get used to pain 24/7 but you do
 
If the D1 only uses the OBD for power supply then a splitter should work. Which pins of the OBD does it use? If it also picks up Canbus signals then a splitter won't work.

Alternatively, if the OBD is actually only for power then you could wire into another 12v source or wire directly to the loom on the rear of the connector and ditch the OBD plug.

Pin 16 is 12v and pin 4 is ground so just for power. It's battery 12v on the OBD so always connected regardless of ignition switch position.

So hopefully looks like a splitter will work fine.

Just done a google search and it looks like it should have a harness connected to the pedal assembly.

I did not fit the D1 but it works fine with a noticeable difference between the settings so assume it was all fitted correctly.

Just ordered a splitter and will let you know how I get on

Thanks again. 👍
 
Wired the new rear bumper lights and rewired the Japanese towbar, all now working correctly complete with indicator buzzer. As I got up and started early I had time to remove the redundant Japanese TV tuner in the rear quarter and remade the original bracket to fit another fuse box, eventually to be used for extra internal lights, fridge etc, the fuses can be accessed through the 12v socket cubby in the back.

How did you secure the LED lights into the bumper please?

I have a set which have an L shaped part which I'm guessing would need a slot cutting to fit into and a hole drilling for a screw to hold it in place.
Otherwise I could just cut those off and use some double-sided tape or something.
 
Woo, arthritis club! DISH arthritis in my back only so far, though my mum suffers with osteoarthritis in her hands and so does my brother, so probably got that in the pipeline too…
 
I'm having a bionic thumb joint fitted in August, like a miniature hip joint, as I can no longer grip anything in my left hand.
 
Does it come with sound effects like the 6 million dollar man?
 
Does that affect your guitar playing?

Hope the bionic thumb works well.
Haven't played for a good while as I can't grip the neck. We'll see if I become a virtuoso with the mechanical assistance.
 
Mine have started locking in the outstretched position , I’m sure I’m going to brake one trying to get it back one day lol, bloody painful , never thought it possible to get used to pain 24/7 but you do
I think I have it in my little finger joint, being a man I've not been to the docs, very painful to bend first thing, I have to make a fist with both hands every morning to get them working.
 
How did you secure the LED lights into the bumper please?

I have a set which have an L shaped part which I'm guessing would need a slot cutting to fit into and a hole drilling for a screw to hold it in place.
Otherwise I could just cut those off and use some double-sided tape or something.
Mine are the same with the L shaped piece, I made two "square U" shaped brackets out of square gutter downpipe the same length as the lights with the downpipe being cut lengthways and shaped to fit the back of the bumper, I then cut a slot in which the "L" bit goes into, they are then attached by a 5mm bit of bolt with the head cut off, this will screw tightly into the screw hole and then a nut tightens it up and this pulls it against the rear bumper. The screw hole in the lights are too shallow in my opinion to take a self tapper, with the cut off bolt it is tight into the light and any subsequent "unscrewing" is done via the nut and not into the plastic. Sorry I didn't take any photos, I assumed most other owners just glued them in with tiger bond or something similar, I'm a bit (lot) OCD and I like things that can be taken apart again.
 
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