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"Tractor" diary. Elgrand from Siberia. E50.

konichiwa!!
So....
Dismantled the starter and oil pressure sensor..
I screwed the hour indicator into the injection pump.
photos.app.goo.gl

New item by Boris TheBlade

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
The Bible says - you need to rotate the pulley 100 degrees counterclockwise from the TDC position of the 1st cylinder (TDC - top dead center). Then rotate the pulley clockwise until the indicator needle stops (approximately 20 degrees before TDC). Set the value on the indicator to 0 and rotate the pulley to TDC. The value should be 0.275mm +/-0.02mm.
I did everything by the book.
if the value is greater, then we move the injection pump towards the engine, if it is less, then we move it away from the engine.
Angles!
how to find out how much 100 degrees is??as I did - I measured the diameter of the pulley = 148mm. The formula for circumference is 2piR = 2x3.14x148mm/2 = 464.72mm.
1 degree = 2piR/360 degrees = 464.72/360 = 1.29 mm.
100 degrees = 1.29mm x 100 = 129mm.
I cut the electrical tape to the required length, apply it to the pulley and mark the corner.
Ahead is setting up the governor using the scanner. BUT!!
After all the work, a short circuit was discovered in the wiring.
A new chapter begins......
PS.how to understand that the first cylinder is at TDC?? The answer is in the Bible - you need to combine the risks on the pulley and on the block. Also, the marks must match on the injection pump gear. If the injection pump gear does not match, you need to make one turnover of the pulley clockwise.
 
You are now more than half way down the Rabbit Hole.👍🏻

I could not use the marks from the bottom pulley wheel against the marks on the casing to determine number 1 at TDC as the pulley wheel is known to slip on the harmonic deadener, so the marks were unreliable.

I had to go down the long route to time it up changing the chain whilst i was there.


IMG_9656.jpeg

IMG_9720.jpeg
IMG_9721.jpeg

With the 4M40 pump being mechanical any deviation from the bible means - do it again.😆
 
WhatsThisFor said:
You are now more than half way down the Rabbit Hole.👍🏻

I could not use the marks from the bottom pulley wheel against the marks on the casing to determine number 1 at TDC as the pulley wheel is known to slip on the harmonic deadener, so the marks were unreliable.

I had to go down the long route to time it up changing the chain whilst i was there.


View attachment 100362

View attachment 100361
View attachment 100363

With the 4M40 pump being mechanical any deviation from the bible means - do it again.😆
Click to expand...
Feature of 4M40)))QD32 does not have a chain or belt, just gears + no dampers, everything is as simple as possible)Your photos are like a scientific dissertation))))The most reliable way is to remove the valve covers and look at the valve lifter cams))
 
Super challenge from Elgrand..Oil pressure sensor.... I decided to change the oil pressure sensor, since it was covered in oil leaks and the entire part of the engine was covered with a layer of oil from below..I thought and hoped that I just needed to unscrew the old sensor and screw in the new one. I was wrong. The problem was in the thread and when trying to screw in a new sensor, the thread was destroyed...New challenges. Remove all attachments from the right side of the engine. Unscrew the aluminum plate with oil channels. Make a bolt with a larger through thread, and also make a thread in the plate. Cut a thread in the bolt for the oil pressure sensor.
Sounds pretty simple)))
 
You've certainly got some tricky work there ... you can do it, as you seem to be a priest of the QD32 who preaches the e50 bible and practice what you preach 🙌
 
Remember the thread for the oil pressure sensor is UNF fine.

MAYBE consider taping and plugging original hole with standard thread and bolt, then take your oil pressure reading from something like this, also easy option to add oil pressure gauge for safety from one of many outlets.

IMG_2092.jpeg
 
WhatsThisFor said:
Remember the thread for the oil pressure sensor is UNF fine.

MAYBE consider taping and plugging original hole with standard thread and bolt, then take your oil pressure reading from something like this, also easy option to add oil pressure gauge for safety from one of many outlets.

View attachment 100416
Click to expand...
Thank you). I've already thought about this. I found a used part at a reasonable price.. And what to plug it in.. Drilling something means I need to dismantle it so that the chips don’t get into the oil. In any case, dismantle.. I read this is the oil heat exchanger, that is, it is necessary to drain the antifreeze from the system..
 
Just going through your thread and had an idea of buying diesel e50, I could do it and would be happy to work on that big diesel, but then checked the prices and hot import from Japan is £10k/2001. Ooofffft! I guess I’ll be looking at different diesels then🤣

Thanks for sharing your journey with us.
 
WeldHog said:
Just going through your thread and had an idea of buying diesel e50, I could do it and would be happy to work on that big diesel, but then checked the prices and hot import from Japan is £10k/2001. Ooofffft! I guess I’ll be looking at different diesels then🤣

Thanks for sharing your journey with us.
Click to expand...
About the diesel engine QD32. This is an incredibly reliable engine and with low mileage over the course of a year, I can confidently say that it will last a very long time... just like its brothers TD42, TD27, SD33...
 
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