• Welcome to the ElgrandOC forum.

    You will find that the majority of the forum is locked, but do not worry. You can unlock more content by registering to the forum completely free. Sign up is automatic, does not require email confirmation and is instant. Feel free to browse through the sections to see what topics have been covered before you register.
    You can register for an account by CLICKING HERE

    Once you have registered, you will unlock more of the forum content. You will not unlock all of the content until you have reached 10 posts. This is to give you an opportunity to chat to existing members and help to integrate you into the forum community.
    We are a friendly and helpful community and there is a wealth of infomation contained within the forum. Please feel free to register, introduce yourself and get to know your fellow members.

    Feel free to look at the Frequently Asked Questions section, the Meets/Events section and the Competition Section without having to register.
    We look forward to getting to know you and help you with any questions or problemd you have with your Elgrand.

Common rust problems??

I noticed a small leak around that area but the tubes look ok no corrosion. Maybe the o rings are weeping were they join the condenser.

I own 2 Elgrands and both had bad AC pipes with AC not working when I bought them.

I bought a 3 part one (easier to fit without dropping the back axle) for my white one. No problem with that.

Would have bought a 3 part one for my black one but none were available. I visited an Elgrand dismantler who offered me the choice of 3 full length AC pipes and we both agreed on which one looked in best condition, so of course I bought the one that seemed in best condition. Dropped the back axle, fitted it, had it gassed up at Kwik Fit, it leaked in the usual position! So back axle off again, removed the recently fitted AC pipe, swapped it for one of the other 2 AC pipes the dismantler had, got it regassed again. The dismantler swapped the pipe free of charge but I had to pay for regassing twice and visit the dismantler twice but at least now it's OK lol...

The moral of the story is that even an AC pipe that looks in great condition can be corroded/thin in the usual position where they suffer this and it only takes the tiniest of pinprick holes for them to leak. If there seems to be a leak around this area I doubt it's from a joint/seal/O-ring, more likely it is the pipe itself.
 
I own 2 Elgrands and both had bad AC pipes with AC not working when I bought them.

I bought a 3 part one (easier to fit without dropping the back axle) for my white one. No problem with that.

Would have bought a 3 part one for my black one but none were available. I visited an Elgrand dismantler who offered me the choice of 3 full length AC pipes and we both agreed on which one looked in best condition, so of course I bought the one that seemed in best condition. Dropped the back axle, fitted it, had it gassed up at Kwik Fit, it leaked in the usual position! So back axle off again, removed the recently fitted AC pipe, swapped it for one of the other 2 AC pipes the dismantler had, got it regassed again. The dismantler swapped the pipe free of charge but I had to pay for regassing twice and visit the dismantler twice but at least now it's OK lol...

The moral of the story is that even an AC pipe that looks in great condition can be corroded/thin in the usual position where they suffer this and it only takes the tiniest of pinprick holes for them to leak. If there seems to be a leak around this area I doubt it's from a joint/seal/O-ring, more likely it is the pipe

I own 2 Elgrands and both had bad AC pipes with AC not working when I bought them.

I bought a 3 part one (easier to fit without dropping the back axle) for my white one. No problem with that.

Would have bought a 3 part one for my black one but none were available. I visited an Elgrand dismantler who offered me the choice of 3 full length AC pipes and we both agreed on which one looked in best condition, so of course I bought the one that seemed in best condition. Dropped the back axle, fitted it, had it gassed up at Kwik Fit, it leaked in the usual position! So back axle off again, removed the recently fitted AC pipe, swapped it for one of the other 2 AC pipes the dismantler had, got it regassed again. The dismantler swapped the pipe free of charge but I had to pay for regassing twice and visit the dismantler twice but at least now it's OK lol...

The moral of the story is that even an AC pipe that looks in great condition can be corroded/thin in the usual position where they suffer this and it only takes the tiniest of pinprick holes for them to leak. If there seems to be a leak around this area I doubt it's from a joint/seal/O-ring, more likely it is the pipe itself.
The air con still operates at the moment and I noticed using the NDS2 you can check the pressure of the system. Any idea how low the pressure can go before the pressure switch shuts down the system.
 
The air con still operates at the moment and I noticed using the NDS2 you can check the pressure of the system. Any idea how low the pressure can go before the pressure switch shuts down the system.
I don't know how low AC pressure can go on Elgrands before the AC system will refuse to engage the AC compressor clutch.

But that may be a different pressure to the pressure it takes for the AC system to work properly (cold at low engine rpm and efficient).

When I bought the black one the owner said he wasn't bothered about AC but had the system regassed so the AC would work when he came to sell it. It still worked a couple of weeks after the regas but when I bought it a week after than it didn't work.

You can see pressure readings using NDS2, or you can use a pressure gauge on the low pressure side of the system, but there isn't exactly a linear relationship between pressure in the system and how much gas is left in it.
 
I did once test the pressure the AC clutch would engage at, just using air pressure while checking for leaks (and decided to check the minimum pressure out of interest), but I forget what I found it to be.
 
I did once test the pressure the AC clutch would engage at, just using air pressure while checking for leaks (and decided to check the minimum pressure out of interest), but I forget what I found it to be.
I'll wait until mine drops out and take a reading. Changing the pipes sounds a right pain, could be the case of removing and doing without rear air con.
 
Just wanting to know where 51s rust in general ? Thinking of wax oiling in the places before it starts ? Any advice ?
Just found bad rust starting between both rear wheel archers.
My E51 Elgrand is spotless and has never been near salt so I can't believe it has happened.
Also you would never notice it as it's all happening under the rear carpet.
What it looks like is Nissan have failed to seal from underneath and water is getting sprayed up between two panels.
 
The rest of the Elgrand you can eat your dinner off.
That's why don't understand why this has rusted so badly.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0299.JPG
    DSC_0299.JPG
    62.3 KB · Views: 46
  • DSC_0300.JPG
    DSC_0300.JPG
    87.1 KB · Views: 46
A good oil leak works wonders on a classic car but the leak needs to be sustantial enough to hoy oil far enough back

Sadly it was. It burnt a lot too. Had to refill the oil every time I filled up with petrol.
 
I'll wait until mine drops out and take a reading. Changing the pipes sounds a right pain, could be the case of removing and doing without rear air con.
I'll keep this brief as we're on the rust thread rather than an AC thread, I only mentioned AC pipes because I think it's a good idea to prevent future rear AC pipe corrosion at the same time as undersealing.

It isn't as difficult as might be expected to drop the back axle, in practice you only have to drop the passenger side.

If you have a leaky rear AC pipe and don't want to change the pipe you can but a blanking plate to put in where the rear AC pipe connects at the front end of the car from Brian @BMR. Obviously rear AC won't work then but it will allow front AC to work without changing the long pipe. I've tried brazing and aluminium welding the rear pipe, the problem is when they leak it's because they've worn thin which makes brazing and welding very difficult.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Reg
I'll keep this brief as we're on the rust thread rather than an AC thread, I only mentioned AC pipes because I think it's a good idea to prevent future rear AC pipe corrosion at the same time as undersealing.

It isn't as difficult as might be expected to drop the back axle, in practice you only have to drop the passenger side.

If you have a leaky rear AC pipe and don't want to change the pipe you can but a blanking plate to put in where the rear AC pipe connects at the front end of the car from Brian @BMR. Obviously rear AC won't work then but it will allow front AC to work without changing the long pipe. I've tried brazing and aluminium welding the rear pipe, the problem is when they leak it's because they've worn thin which makes brazing and welding very difficult.
For a min then I thought I commented on the wrong post.
Fixing this rust tomorrow then putting the rear back together.
 
If you look under the car directly below where the rear cabin filter is You'll find it. Be careful as it's very easy to break the hinges if they've seized up.
Hi there, I've just noticed my rear aircon inspection hatch has all but rusted away. Do you know where I can get a replacement , or what the part number is ?
 
Hi there, I've just noticed my rear aircon inspection hatch has all but rusted away. Do you know where I can get a replacement , or what the part number is ?
You could look it up on the EPC but whether it's still available is another matter. Might be worth asking Steve at Tojo if he has a good used one.
 
Pay special attention around the rear aircon inspection hatch.

Bit of a revival of this thread but this bit of advice was brilliant. Despite my import been in generally good order this bit of it wasn't...

The inside of the box was fine, the outside was likely a 3 on the 10-point rust scale.... odd bits of pitting and generally unpleasant.

I've removed it all, cleaned with a grinder and pad, then bilt hambered and it's currently in paint waiting to go back on. I can only assume its position near the rear wheel means its gets utterly battered by grit and water...

Definitely, one to check for any new owner...

I also removed the foam and replaced with some black rubber I had lying around (not from any kinky pants or anything before anyone asks :joy:) to essentially make a sealed unit

The foam that is on there is a rust trap, the worst rust on the unit was where the foam had been...
 
Last edited:
I've had my S1 E51 for 10 years, and only decided this year to use up a 5L can of Waxoyl from my Dads garage.
Whilst I had mine on jacks for a month, doing the steering rack, I removed the liners for wheels and fuel filler pipe, and half heartedly jet washed the underside,, and let it dry for a few days. Luckily it was during the heatwave, so dried well.
I then unleashed all 5L with my compressor driven spray gun. Other than brakes, I didn't bother to protect anything..
In fairness, I don't use the thing every day, and less during bad weather, and I only found 1 rust hole about the size of a 2p piece in a non structural area of the rear arch.
I was pleasantly surprised with the structural integrity of the thing, after 10 years on UK roads, but would not have left it had I known a) what an amazing vehicle, and b) I'd own it for soo long.
It did however have lots of surface rust on various steel parts
The car stank of hot wax for months, but I think it's better on the car than in the can, even if its not the best.
Probably would use Dinitrol if I did it again. Wonder if it can be applied over Waxoyl?
 
I was pleasantly surprised with the structural integrity of the thing, after 10 years on UK roads

Did you not have it undersealed before you did your work?

I'm in the process of getting mine booked in to have the cavity wax done. I'd previously bought all the Dinitrol gear to DIY the lot but the English weather has me reluctant to be crawling round in my overalls, therefore its time to pay a man.
 
Back
Top