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WHAT THE FUCK???!!!!

Last year I bought a 20 tonne hydraulic press to press out the front and rear wheel bearings it just about worked The hydraulic jack I don't believe was up to it It said 20 tonnes but I don't believe it was typical Chinese So this year I decided by a air hydraulic jack to see if that was any better And the answer is yes it is It saves me having to pump it which takes hours and gives you arm ache So I thought I would test it on a piece of wood Yes he crushed it no problems at all But what I hadn't realised it had bent the two plates as they were on top of each other That's 28 MMM thick the old jack wouldn't have done it but at least it didn't take long for me to straighten them back out again So now I've got to get some proper steel to make the plate up I think they used mild steel.
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I wonder why that idea is not used in eMTB motors.

Or even better, the Toyota infinity drive.
 
I went to put my regular £20 of petrol in the tank today. I put in Esso Energy Supreme 99 as normal, it costs £1.78 a litre now. At least pumping didn't last as long as normal but the fuel gauge needle hardly moved. ;)
This was my first petrol purchase since Donald's "excursion" into Iran.

As @Lpgc said elsewhere,
Lpgc said:
Savings are going up again since petrol went up in price, now saving over 40% in fuel costs again.
Click to expand...
I'm saving about 87p a litre when running on LPG
 
If an armed would be assassin ran trough a heavily armed check point towards his target…..why wasn't he shot ?

Highly trained professional, armed security, FBI Agents, SWAT Teams, snipers and the threat wasn’t dispatched.

WTF…..poorly staged, low budget, entertainment from President Trump.

I do like him though, he is a bit Boris-esq, a constant source of amusement, back in the day court jesters were highly thought of for their foolery, I think this is the modern day equivalent.
 
Magnu said:
I went to put my regular £20 of petrol in the tank today. I put in Esso Energy Supreme 99 as normal, it costs £1.78 a litre now. At least pumping didn't last as long as normal but the fuel gauge needle hardly moved.
This was my first petrol purchase since Donald's "excursion" into Iran.

As @Lpgc said elsewhere,

I'm saving about 87p a litre when running on LPG
Click to expand...
£20 quid 😳 I put £50 in mine and £30 in the gas 🙁
 
Last week I purchased 20 litres of Mannol 15/30 synth from Costco as I always do…….even though the oil was pooh poohed by many on here I like the taste of it.

When I did my oil changes with my new siphon pump gizmo I noticed it wasn’t mannol at all, it was Chevron,

I will don my flame suit and await some feedback.

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Costco near me have started asking silly money for it now cheaper to go online for 20lt and get it delivered for free C3 spec suits the Nissan engine
 
I looked into oils and spoke to a few oil experts when I was trying to find the most suitable oil for my boat engine, the boat engine is a bit of a mash-up of different technologies spanning many decades and the different technologies need contradicting things from an oil.

A few things that did become apparent were that 1 the base oil never really wears out. 2 they put stuff in it to make it a multigrade and that stuff can break down at high temperatures on some oils but that was really more the case for older mineral oils and synthetics are unlikely to break down unless they get extremely hot, 3 if they do break down due to heat it makes the oil act more like the lower (pre W) number in terms of viscocity instead of what it should be which is closer to the post W number. 4. one of the biggest differences between synthetic oils is the additive package, not the base oil itself. The additives are there to clean up and dissove stuff and keep the oil stable despite having the cleaned up and dissvolved stuff in it. 5. If you change your oil very regularly you don't really need to rely on those additives so much because you're rinsing out the stuff that you might want dissolved anyway. 6. the C numbers are mostly about what chemicals the oil will produce when burned (all engines burn some oil), the burned stuff goes out through DPFs or cats on modern engines and we don't want burned oil to be poisonous to DPF's or cats.

For my boat engine I went with what I was advised, which was the same oil I would have chosen anyway having done all my research. I went for Valvoline racing 20/50 oil... But you wouldn't want to use that oil in a modern engine that has cats or DPF's. The boat doesn't have cats or DPFs but does have flat tappet (none roller) tappets/cam followers (which need the zinc of an old skool mineral oil), the oil can run unusually cool or hot in the boat engine so the oil should have good additives and good sheer strength (clean up when cold or hot and not break down to be thinner at high temps).

For the car I have no problem running most synthetics, I change it regularly enough that additives etc probably won't make a lot of difference anyway and my car doesn't have any cats or DPFs so I don't need to worry about the C rating stuff. But I do sometimes wonder if manufacturers go to the effort of making sure oils meet some rating such as a C rating, did they have to compromise in any other respect to make their oil meet that rating. For example if my boat had a cat I wouldn't be using the Valvoline racing (off road) stuff in it so I would be using a different oil, but I wouldn't be as confident about that oil's protection for the engine as I am about the Valvoline racing stuff so I would be compromising protection for the engine for protection for cats or lambda sensors... It does beg the question do oil manufacturers have to make the same type of compromises?
 
Last edited:
Michael6457 said:
Costco near me have started asking silly money for it now cheaper to go online for 20lt and get it delivered for free C3 spec suits the Nissan engine
Click to expand...
If you go online you don’t get a Chicken Bake and Soda - deal breaker for me.
 
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