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What have you done to your Elgrand today?

Fitted my tailgate awning/kitchen windbreak 2.0, the first one went over the tailgate which fit okay, but I was concerned the material would scratch the paintwork so I made this instead using two gazebo side panels. It's just for cooking in lighter winds/rain as the cooker swings out under the tailgate and the gas flames blow about a bit, plus I like my bacon crispy not wet and I can't convince SHMBO to cook in the rain. . A couple of minutes to fit, nice and light and each side fits independently so I can just fit the windward side if required, plus no pegging down needed.

20260912_091052.jpg
 
BrianH said:
Fitted my tailgate awning/kitchen windbreak 2.0, the first one went over the tailgate which fit okay, but I was concerned the material would scratch the paintwork so I made this instead using two gazebo side panels. It's just for cooking in lighter winds/rain as the cooker swings out under the tailgate and the gas flames blow about a bit, plus I like my bacon crispy not wet and I can't convince SHMBO to cook in the rain. . A couple of minutes to fit, nice and light and each side fits independently so I can just fit the windward side if required, plus no pegging down needed.

View attachment 122090
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You're far to handy
 
Fitted the rear ARB bushes (correct ones supplied by JDM 🙏🏻) found my near side rear caliper is rocking on the pins a wee bit (must be good quality parts fitted by vine place, lasted just over 12m) I heard an intermittent click whilst braking in France but not had the windows down since so forgot about it... Only gets driven at weekends. Back to JDM for more parts 🤣
 
In my quest for carrying loads of stuff but still having room in the bus during the travelling part of getting to the campsite, I finally thought of a way to store the shaped infill cushions for the bed that kept them out of the way. "Y" shaped straps hold them to the rear windows using the Nissan rear seat hook as per the original Elgrand rear seats, and "O" lifting eyes hooked into the rear seat sliders, if its good enough for Nissan :)
20260913_172945.jpg
 
SeedyWhiteVan said:
Yes it still has all the cats, so it could be that, but I'm hopeful that it isn't. I'm perpetually intending to sell the van at the soonest opportunity but I still haven't done it. So if it survives this issue I'll get the cats sorted and service the transmission.
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Re-learned a lesson about checking the basics before theorising about impending doom. My van didn't have a dodgy transmission, failing timing chain, bad crank shaft sensor or blocked cats. The mechanic just changed the sparkplugs last week and it seems to be all good again - seems like one of them wasn't working all the time.
 
Here's something I don't think anyone else has mentioned.
My sliding doors have always had varying amounts of resistance as they move and especially around half way they stiffen up, I always assumed this to be due to geometry.
Recently one of them had become really slow to move and on manual it was really stiff. Fearing that I was going to have to make new cables (again) or worse, find that the motor was failing, I investigated.......
What I hadn't appreciated until today is that the cable that goes from the body to the door itself slides in a channel and it was this that was causing the stiffness. I have lubed all along the outside and inside of the channel as best I can with fingers dipped in silicon caliper grease and they are much better
 
I know I'm going to be told that I should know better but I had two P Zero tyres fitted on the front by Kwick-Fit today. They also did a free vehicle tyre check before they changed them, the result, - recommend changing the two front tyres, no dashboard warning lights on and the spare was inaccessible. Amazing and worth every penny!
 
Nevillerover said:
Here's something I don't think anyone else has mentioned.
My sliding doors have always had varying amounts of resistance as they move and especially around half way they stiffen up,
Here's something I don't think anyone else has mentioned.
What I hadn't appreciated until today is that the cable that goes from the body to the door itself slides in a channel and it was this that was causing the stiffness. I have lubed all along the outside and inside of the channel as best I can with fingers dipped in silicon caliper grease and they are much better
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As you know, inside, you have two plastic rollers with metal pins, one on each cable, 2 bolts holding in place ( inside, behind the plastic panels), when you replace the cable, you open them up, clean, re- grease, I used silicone.
I would imagine if you had a silicone grease spray, pushed the Straw end in the rubber grommet, it might do similar!!!
But you'd be greasing the cable ( I think that is what you have done) which might not be great as dirt & stuff will stick to the grease/cable, which might cause more probs down the road, that's why the cables are plastic coated, yes not Great but it's what we have.
 
mr james said:
As you know, inside, you have two plastic rollers with metal pins, one on each cable, 2 bolts holding in place ( inside, behind the plastic panels), when you replace the cable, you open them up, clean, re- grease, I used silicone.
I would imagine if you had a silicone grease spray, pushed the Straw end in the rubber grommet, it might do similar!!!
But you'd be greasing the cable ( I think that is what you have done) which might not be great as dirt & stuff will stick to the grease/cable, which might cause more probs down the road, that's why the cables are plastic coated, yes not Great but it's what we have.
Click to expand...
I've said as much before about grease, great in the beginning but soon attracts grit and shit and can turn into a grinding paste.
 
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