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Sliding door says no

I only have one side that is auto and i am becoming less sad about that thr further into the replacement I get!
 
Bazildog said:
FYI in the big post with numbered instructions, which is super handy, there is reference to a white cover over the cogs near the motor. Mine was black. Had me reading the instructions for a while until i build up the courage to just go in and see what happenedView attachment 116107
Click to expand...
Black is left white is right for us folk that have dual sliding doors.

After all the hype with these repairs and using bicycle parts just repaired one of my spares with the same sheathed wiring and soldered in the ends. Quite easy to find the parts for this on ebay for those that have the skills.
 
I did mine with new 1.5mm stainless sheathed wire, search for aircraft cable if you can't find it. Soldered new nipples on and used the original outers, I did make a birdcage tool to splay the ends and used a long piece if wood with two nails at each end to hold the nipples at the right length, the front and rear cables are different lengths. I have the other drivers side to do, its still working but needs doing for piece of mind. It seems a daunting job but is actually quite easy but time consuming, it took me about 4 hours in total but I did faff about a bit cleaning etc at the same time. I'm not idle but electric doors are far better than manual. :)
 
I could use the bike sheathing, did not plan to as the forum posts mostly/ all the ones i read referred to cable only. In fact i cannot use the bike outers as they are really thick and designed for the cables to run inside...and finding ways to make it work run inside is a step too far for me. I will google covered cable and see if i want to change over as i am still waiting for silver solder and flux to arrive.
 
I am sticking with the bear Jagwire. Stainless steel and pre stretched according to the spec. Good enough for who she is for.
 
I used bare stainless wire.
Where it runs over a bit of silver metal (you’ll see where I mean) I greased it and refresh it now and again.
 
The sheathing is what caused mine to slow and then jam, I am hoping the odd service grease will keep the stainless going until i have to scrap her ( in I hope about 5 years time, and around 200,000 miles). If the van lasts that long then she owes me nothing. Now need to research how many miles we can get with regular oil changes.
 
I've fallen victim to a broken cable too. Somehow I can only see broken cable, I'm guessing the other one popped out and wound itself back to the motor. But I can't see the plastic clips anywhere, hoping they haven't fallen on the road somewhere. I did manage to break a few clips pulling the wire cover panel off though, does anybody have a part number or something for them?
 
I have a slightly different problem to what's been discussed...My driver side has the sheathing-decay issue (we haven't used it for a long time) and (due to the issue below) I'm now planning to just cut the wires and make it manual (the switch under the steering wheel does nothing!).

On the passenger side, all was working well...until it wasn't. One day the door just got completely stuck half way, wouldn't open or close. Eventually with a lot of back and forth, sweat and tears (fortunately no blood!) managed to get it closed. Expecting that it was a wire/motor problem I cut the wires...but it still get's stuck - we daren't use it - there's no way that wife (main user) & children would be able to force it closed like I did. Tracks are clear.

I'm thinking it may need new rollers. Does anyone have experience of this? Any idea where to obtain and how easy/difficult a replacement would be?
Thanks.
 
Have you looked at the jointed cable conduit at the bottom?
 
Is there any videos of cable replacement were you can see what side of door to start and how many times cable goes around cog wheel
 
The front cable goes around the spiral cog until its reasonably tight and the door is in the closed position so you don't need to count the times it goes around the cog, the rear cable then goes around the other bit (the other way -clockwise or anticlockwise) with the teeth on and this can be turned until both cables are reasonably tight and the teeth engaged, the final tension is then taken up with the tension springs, these should be locked "open" with the tabs before putting the cables on and then released to take up the tension. When you look at the system it will become apparent, I may have the front and rear cables instruction transposed I can't remember which way but you will see as soon as you have it in front of you.
 
BrianH said:
The front cable goes around the spiral cog until its reasonably tight and the door is in the closed position so you don't need to count the times it goes around the cog, the rear cable then goes around the other bit (the other way -clockwise or anticlockwise) with the teeth on and this can be turned until both cables are reasonably tight and the teeth engaged, the final tension is then taken up with the tension springs, these should be locked "open" with the tabs before putting the cables on and then released to take up the tension. When you look at the system it will become apparent, I may have the front and rear cables instruction transposed I can't remember which way but you will see as soon as you have it in front of you.
Click to expand...
Thanks v much mate at last someone to give you a proper hand it was well appreciated
 
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