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Sliding door says no

Mines just snapped on the passenger side this evening, just looking at making new cables, tooling required to solder on new nipples, probably needs a complete overhaul of both sides because the drivers side is also a little slow, marvelous, booked in for the mot on Friday. But on the plus side I have found sheathed cable for sale on Ebay which looks like the original, just need to measure diameters etc.
 
Did you get a fix for the door stopping half way?
@MrChops
 
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MrChops said:
If I just remove said cable, can I use the door manually? Power door has always been another clever Elgrand annoyance where my passengers try to drag it open or closed fighting the motor. Got sick of hearing myself saying "it's automatic, just give the handle a pull and fcking let go for fcks sake. Let go!"
Click to expand...
That's the way mine is, so it's manual only. Doesn't seem to be a problem. I aim to fix it sometime and there's a tutorial on here somewhere. Good luck.
 
I bought mine with as few whistles and bells as I could, I only have one power door and even that gets glitchy above 23' celsius lol

Less equipment - less maintenance - less failures = happier ownership.
 
Does anyone have the link to the tutorial to fix the sliding door?
 
the single screw in step 6 removes the panel to reveal this:
i was able to use a sharp knife and cross cutters to clean up the cable...so do i replace as the inside is stripped down or take the life left in the now tied up cable...ummm1000019305.jpg
 

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You can’t get it all off and if it cracks and slits within the cable outlets that are inside the car, it will fail.
Proper fix is to replace.
Mine failed becuase the covering cracked, the wire rusted and strands broke and jammed inside the cable outer.
If you want to try and get away with it, make sure you know how to release or cut the cable because mine failed half open so I couldn’t drive the car.
 
Gone in. Those clips on the sliding door, c u next tuesdays. One out, the far one left to remove. Bleeding fingers. 45 degree pliers not quite doing it, will order 90 degree and go back in to war.
 
One other possibility besides the cable snap problem. We had these symptoms and it turned out to be a broken wire within the bundle between door and vehicle body (the one covered in a rubber concertina piece). The wire had made contact in some positions but not in others meaning the door only opened part way. Re-soldering fixed it. All doable once the step is removed.
 
might help some, the white bastard clips are removed, this is the bracket that moves with the door on the outside, clips in the bag for safe storage

1000019325.jpg1000019327.jpg
 
FYI in the big post with numbered instructions, which is super handy, there is reference to a white cover over the cogs near the motor. Mine was black. Had me reading the instructions for a while until i build up the courage to just go in and see what happened1000019308.jpg
 
Mine are black too.
I recall getting to the bottom bolt was impossible until I realised you can undo the metal panel the black thing is screwed to and partially lift it out.
 
Nevillerover said:
Mine are black too.
I recall getting to the bottom bolt was impossible until I realised you can undo the metal panel the black thing is screwed to and partially lift it out.
Click to expand...
that is right, that step is in the numbered guide, i did see mention of someone removing surplus body parts! Cutting away some of it.
 
I honestly love fixing stuff and never shy away from a fix.
I've fixed mobile phones, Nintendos, Mechanical watches, Gas boilers, car engines, injection systems etc etc but to be totally honest - once my side door cable snapped, I switched to manual and I am NOT going to attempt this repair!
It honestly fills me with dread.
My hat is off to anyone who does this though...
 
I dreaded it and when I first looked nearly shat. However, it's actually ok once you get going and extremely satisfying to have done it.
Don't just fix the broken one though, replace all four to future proof it.
 
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