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Antifreeze, thoughts

mr james

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Nearly 3 years, so probably time to change.
So to play safe I took the top of radiator, to my suprise it's green.
Dark green ( not a watered down green) so thinking it's specialist and remembering about some kind that doesn't need much pressure ( yip getting old, memory fades)
Looked on-line but found nothing but evens classic!!
Looked at Nissan, yes they do green, but it's still a watered ( yes distilled water 50/50)
Or does it get darker nearer the change interval!!


Well just thought what all you great people got in there bus.
Yes to play safe I'll flush it a couple times and replace
Just curious
 
I used Comma G30 in mine, been absolutely fine and if it springs a leak it's red so can't be confused with an AC leak.
 
Does it actually need to get changed? I dont think mine has ever been.
 
I used Comma G30 in mine, been absolutely fine and if it springs a leak it's red so can't be confused with an AC leak.
yeah but you might think its gearbox oil :( :D
 
There are 2 important factors.
1. Use a type of antifreeze that is compatible with the materials in the engine and cooling system. The best bet for this is to use a type that is compatible with the type that the vehicle manufacturer used. But there are some rules of thumb you can go by if you know for example whether there's any copper/brass meeting the engine coolant (in parts like water pumps).
2. Don't mix antifreezes of different chemical types. There are several different types and some can be mixed but mixing other types will see them chemically react and form stuff like sludge in the cooling system.

If you're confident the type of antifreeze you'd like to use is compatible with everything in the cooling system you can change types but if you're changing between 2 types that are not compatible with each other as in (2) you need to thoroughly flush the cooling system with water before doing so.

There was a time with European made vehicles when you could tell the type by the colour. Not always true in other areas such as the US because for some years in the US it was mostly green regardless of the type. Not true more recently either, because manufacturers dye their own product their own colour whatever the spec. But that said, most vehicles for years have used long life stuff, and since it's long life it isn't glycol based.

Stuff you see in car shops rated as 2/3 year life is usually glycol based. Stuff rated at 5 year life is usually acid based of which there are several types, most of which can be mixed but not all and you don't want to fall foul of (2).

Don't mix glycol based with acid based types.
 
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There are 2 important factors.
1. Use a type of antifreeze that is compatible with the materials in the engine and cooling system. The best bet for this is to use a type that is compatible with the type that the vehicle manufacturer used. But there are some rules of thumb you can go by if you know for example whether there's any copper/brass meeting the engine coolant (in parts like water pumps).
2. Don't mix antifreezes of different chemical types. There are several different types and some can be mixed but mixing other types will see them chemically react and form stuff like sludge in the cooling system.

If you're confident the type of antifreeze you'd like to use is compatible with everything in the cooling system you can change types but if you're changing between 2 types that are not compatible with each other as in (2) you need to thoroughly flush the cooling system with water before doing so.

There was a time with European made vehicles when you could tell the type by the colour. Not always true in other areas such as the US because for some years in the US it was mostly green regardless of the type.

Stuff you see in car shops rated as 2/3 year life is usually glycol based. Stuff rated at 5 year life is usually acid based of which there are several types. Don't mix glycol based with acid based types.
Keeping this in mind, if you need to top up but don’t know what’s already in then top up with such as distilled water ( remember the product strength and be prepared to change it all later)
Again if you don’t know what’s in already then flush before you change, it might be a ball ache but your better safe than very sorry
I think that’s what Simon said anyway lol
 
Yes, I should have added that I thoroughly flushed the system before filling with the G30 and deionised water.
 
Thing is, this seems a nightmare for anyone buying ANY used car. If it's essential what goes in is the same as what's in it (topping up), then it's too risky. And full flushes, multiple distilled water jobs aren't at the top of garages' wanna-do lists. They prefer a hose out/drain/replace, which of course leaves 20% of the 'old' stuff still in the system. And is one reason why coolant replacments AFTER the first replacement are usually shorter (as not all the old stuff was removed).
 
Thing is, this seems a nightmare for anyone buying ANY used car. If it's essential what goes in is the same as what's in it (topping up), then it's too risky. And full flushes, multiple distilled water jobs aren't at the top of garages' wanna-do lists. They prefer a hose out/drain/replace, which of course leaves 20% of the 'old' stuff still in the system. And is one reason why coolant replacments AFTER the first replacement are usually shorter (as not all the old stuff was removed).
But doesn't that actually tell you it really doesn't matter, as almost nobody has actually problems related to antifreeze? Me and my wife have bought amd run a variery of used cars for 30 years, had them serviced in a multitude of different places from main dealers to back lane works. I have never topped up antifreeze in my life, and its obviously that each garage just shoves some random liquid in each time. Never actually gad an issue though!
 
But doesn't that actually tell you it really doesn't matter, as almost nobody has actually problems related to antifreeze? Me and my wife have bought amd run a variery of used cars for 30 years, had them serviced in a multitude of different places from main dealers to back lane works. I have never topped up antifreeze in my life, and its obviously that each garage just shoves some random liquid in each time. Never actually gad an issue though!
Have had and seen meny a water pump fail, radiators leaking, head gaskets gone, the list goes on and on.

But if you don't intend on keeping long, yes put whatever you want in it..
A garage will put in what is recommended if you don't have this in it and something goes wrong that's not their fault
 
Have had and seen meny a water pump fail, radiators leaking, head gaskets gone, the list goes on and on.

But if you don't intend on keeping long, yes put whatever you want in it..
A garage will put in what is recommended if you don't have this in it and something goes wrong that's not their fault
Fair enough, maybe i was just lucky in the past!
 
So has anyone got a make they use, other than Comma G30, for dummy me that doesn't know.
 
Just looked at the Comma G30 and it says it's silicate free, but doesn't say it's borate free? 🤔
 
Sorry I found out mine had evens classic, so I just topped up, it looked pretty good condition and a test came up good.
As to answer ( I hope) nip into Nissan and ask them, I'm sure they would help, as the same engine in other Nissan motor's
 
I've been running G30 for a few years with no issues so far. Prestone is supposed to be compatible with all systems if you are worried.
 
Sorry I found out mine had evens classic, so I just topped up, it looked pretty good condition and a test came up good.
As to answer ( I hope) nip into Nissan and ask them, I'm sure they would help, as the same engine in other Nissan motor's

Hi James, I had a look but can't find any details about it being silicate and borate free. Have you got that information anywhere please?
 
I've been running G30 for a few years with no issues so far. Prestone is supposed to be compatible with all systems if you are worried.

Thanks!
 
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