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Underseal

Ian Jones

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#21
inside out i have found happens a lot with jap cars, have had a couple of scoobs that had rust that way.

condensation forms more in the springtime with cold mornings and warm days, and can lead to rust on the insides.

I would say it is worth getting done
 

Kim&Bill Dorset

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#22
Hi Ian, The door cards seem to come off and go back on easy so think I'll get some clear stuff and give it a spray
 

George322

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#23
Mine was well undersealed by the importer, Calder Campers, but I decided to have all the nooks and crannies done as well.
 

Serra

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#24
Don't get this as japan is probably the only other place that has similarities to the UK when it comes to weather, they average about double the annual rain we get.
 

Chris T

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#25
Don't get this as japan is probably the only other place that has similarities to the UK when it comes to weather, they average about double the annual rain we get.
They snowy areas use snow chains, so they don't grit roads, it's that simple really.
 

legrand

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#26
This might be a stupid question, but would it be quite obvious if an underseal has been done? The guy I bought from wasn't sure, I got it booked in for the cats this Friday and thought I'd try and look when it's up on a ramp.
 

legrand

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#27
Sorry just to add, is it easy to spot difference between they quick in and out vs 4 day long underseal job?
 

Frogeyepete

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#28
Sorry just to add, is it easy to spot difference between they quick in and out vs 4 day long underseal job?
Probably not, initially. The idea of a 4 day jobby is that it is given a thorough clean, completely dried and thoroughly undersealed. How could you tell the difference until the rust starts to appear?
 

blingo

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#29
Sorry just to add, is it easy to spot difference between they quick in and out vs 4 day long underseal job?
No I wouldn't say it's easy to spot the difference until much later on. Very much doubt a dealer would go the expense of a full on 4 day job and would expect a private seller to have know if they had had it done.

That said, mine had only had a quick job done by the dealer when I bought it and over 3 years later doesn't look so bad underneath - pretty confident It would be ALOT worse if it hadn't had anything done!
 

legrand

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#30
Would it be quite obvious if no underseal was done though? Presumably I'm looking for some kind of rubbery type residue all along the underside of the vehicle? I would imagine the guy doing my cats would be able to tell?
 

Chris T

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#31
Would it be quite obvious if no underseal was done though? Presumably I'm looking for some kind of rubbery type residue all along the underside of the vehicle? I would imagine the guy doing my cats would be able to tell?
If it's been undersealed there would be a transparent wax or a dark thick finish depending on product used. If it's bare metal then it's as it left the factory.
 

Lize

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#32
I've done a fair bit on Classic Range Rover chassis and body panels. They are very prone to go on in many places as well as from the inside out as @Kim&Bill Dorset described, behind front and rear wings, in doors etc. The factory seam sealer eventually fails and harbours water which then creates big problems. My experience of underside treatments has perhaps been a bit more project based. People tend to jet wash and steam clean off the undersides of LRs over access pits and let them dry for a few days but I've never done this as even on ramps its simply not practical, so mine has involved cleaning with an angle grinder and Dremel for smaller areas followed by a load of welding so I'd expect this to be more heavy duty than anything needed on the Elgrand.

I have used the full range of Bilt Hamber products and can recommend them all. Their rust eater is really good, Epoxy Mastic for painting chassis and welding repairs, their seam sealer and all followed by their underbody and cavity waxes. Not particularly cheap but no more expensive than other products and I think you get what you pay for.

The cavity wax comes in a can with a long pipe on it so you can feed it in holes in chassis etc to coat fully from the inside so along with the underbody stuff could be two good options for the Elgrand, I plan on using these this summer on mine.
 

Chris T

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#33
I used the hilt hamber stuff on mine, the cavity sealer and under seal come in at around £60, still got about a litre of underseal left after the car getting 3 good layers of it.
 

Lize

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#34
Mine has been undersealed (bought second hand in UK and done by previous owner or importer) but I was looking underneath the other day and its really a bare a bare minimum job. Only had the wheel arches and floor done, theres none to speak of on subframes or presumably in any cavities so it would be worth others checking whats been done to theirs. As I suspected, definitely need to do it properly this summer.
 

Caroline15

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#35
How Much should you expect to pay for a full Underseal job and how much longer does the proper job last compared to the quick coat? i've heard the cheap job is a yearly thing but in reality if i go for the full job will it last a few years? I'm concerned about this MOT advisory on heavily undersealed cars i've heard a few of my friends that underseal their cars themselves talking about this lately.. Thanks
 

Chris T

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#36
How Much should you expect to pay for a full Underseal job and how much longer does the proper job last compared to the quick coat? i've heard the cheap job is a yearly thing but in reality if i go for the full job will it last a few years? I'm concerned about this MOT advisory on heavily undersealed cars i've heard a few of my friends that underseal their cars themselves talking about this lately.. Thanks
If you have a full job I'd say expect £500-£600 (depending on where you live) it should then just need a quick look over once a year and maybe a quick touch up with a rattle can if some areas need it. Other than that should be good for 5 years at minimum.
 

Caroline15

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#37
If you have a full job I'd say expect £500-£600 (depending on where you live) it should then just need a quick look over once a year and maybe a quick touch up with a rattle can if some areas need it. Other than that should be good for 5 years at minimum.
Thanks for that will get it booked in for a cheap do its like New underneath at the moment so would like to keep it like that
 

Chris T

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#38
Thanks for that will get it booked in for a cheap do its like New underneath at the moment so would like to keep it like that
If it's like new, it's the right time to get a good job done of it and keep it that way, underseal is better as a prevention to rust rather than trying to cure it.
 

MattUK

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#39
Would it be quite obvious if no underseal was done though? Presumably I'm looking for some kind of rubbery type residue all along the underside of the vehicle? I would imagine the guy doing my cats would be able to tell?
I too would be interested to know how to tell if our car has been undersealed or not.. perhaps a before and after pic please? I have had a good look underneath and think mine has been undersealed as there is a greyish rough textured stuff all over the underneath but am not 100% sure if this is underseal. Thanks for any help.
 

Frogeyepete

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#40
How Much should you expect to pay for a full Underseal job and how much longer does the proper job last compared to the quick coat? i've heard the cheap job is a yearly thing but in reality if i go for the full job will it last a few years? I'm concerned about this MOT advisory on heavily undersealed cars i've heard a few of my friends that underseal their cars themselves talking about this lately.. Thanks
Can you tell me what the MOT advisory is with respect to heavily undersealed cars. Is it that the underseal may be hiding a badly corroded chassis? Just dropped mine off for Dinitrol underseal £564 (including VAT), Chassis and box sections, but no wheel arches. Not sure how prone the Elgrands are to wheel arch corrosion. It seems to be a big problem on the Bongos (wash my mouth out with soap). :(
 
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