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"Tractor" diary. Elgrand from Siberia. E50.

Greetings from Mordor) I haven't written for a long time (work, new tattoo, etc.) the recovery process continues to move. I'm working on the right side. I will do the left later in September - October.
What I've done: 1. restored all the supporting structures of the body.
2. All internal elements are coated with 1 layer acid primer. 2 layers epoxy primer. seam sealer. and mastic.
3. covered the thresholds from the inside as well with a whole sandwich of primers and mastics.
4. restored stage.
5 welded thresholds.
It remains to process all the seams with a grinder.
From below, cover everything with a sandwich of primers and mastics and sealants. From the outside putty / primer / painting. Speaking of painting. I thought and chose a lot. I leaned towards the Raptor and similar coatings .. But in the end I chose Hamerite hammer paint)

 
Nice work.
Here in New Zealand, we have a yearly inspection that would require that to be done and certified by a qualified engineer to be used on the road. Rules, regulations and lots of money required is the way of the world these days.
 
I leaned towards the Raptor and similar coatings .. But in the end I chose Hamerite hammer paint)
I'm curious - could you describe the advantages to you of Hammerite vs Raptor?
 
Greetings from Mordor) I haven't written for a long time (work, new tattoo, etc.) the recovery process continues to move. I'm working on the right side. I will do the left later in September - October.
What I've done: 1. restored all the supporting structures of the body.
2. All internal elements are coated with 1 layer acid primer. 2 layers epoxy primer. seam sealer. and mastic.
3. covered the thresholds from the inside as well with a whole sandwich of primers and mastics.
4. restored stage.
5 welded thresholds.
It remains to process all the seams with a grinder.
From below, cover everything with a sandwich of primers and mastics and sealants. From the outside putty / primer / painting. Speaking of painting. I thought and chose a lot. I leaned towards the Raptor and similar coatings .. But in the end I chose Hamerite hammer paint)

Great work as usual Boris.
You will get there soon.
 
Nice work.
Here in New Zealand, we have a yearly inspection that would require that to be done and certified by a qualified engineer to be used on the road. Rules, regulations and lots of money required is the way of the world these days.
Hello) Well ... We have something similar in Russia .. But who cares what I welded there and how I restored it, when thresholds are welded on top and all repairs will be hidden behind them). We have a big problem with right-hand drive cars, many of them were brought to Russia in the form of spare parts and registered not quite correctly (like my Elgrand). In general, I agree that repairs should be done by professionals with an examination and confirmation that the car is serviceable ... But the price .. I didn’t start doing the Tractor myself from a good life .. and I always repair it myself .. Yes, and: If you want a thing done well, do it yourself.))))
 
I'm curious - could you describe the advantages to you of Hammerite vs Raptor?
Greetings) The main advantage for me is: 1. Appearance. A very unusual paint texture with a beautiful (in my opinion and in the opinion of my wife - and this is the most important) look. 2. The manufacturer promises that the paint will last 8-12 years. According to the description, this paint is resistant to weathering and other chemical liquids. I expect a maximum of 5 years to ride a Tractor. I think it should be enough) 3. Repair. If damaged, it will be quite difficult to choose the size of the shagreen on the raptor. I just apply hammer paint with a roller. Why roller? because the hammer effect will show up better when applied with a roller .. To use the spray gun, I will have to dilute the paint, and this will reduce the effect of the hammer and will not make sense to me .. 4. By anti-corrosion effect. It doesn't matter to me as I do a very serious (in my opinion) preparation before painting. (acid primers, epoxy primers in 3 layers, etc.). 5. The main advantage. It's unusual. Yes, I'm not a fan of platitudes, I want to misbehave in a good way. Why not paint the car with hammer paint?))))
 
5. The main advantage. It's unusual. Yes, I'm not a fan of platitudes, I want to misbehave in a good way. Why not paint the car with hammer paint?))))
Brilliant reasons, and I particularly liked this one!
I guess we wouldn't be driving Elgrands if we wanted something 'normal' 😀👍
 
Can you provide any information on the amount of lift that you were able to achieve and the parts used for your lift? I would also like to know the size of you tires.

I settled on the Elgrand because of the qd32 also. The older delicas had issues with earlier engine failure. I still think about getting another hiace but think the Nissan can do what I need.

Thanks
 
Can you provide any information on the amount of lift that you were able to achieve and the parts used for your lift? I would also like to know the size of you tires.

I settled on the Elgrand because of the qd32 also. The older delicas had issues with earlier engine failure. I still think about getting another hiace but think the Nissan can do what I need.

Thanks
Hello. sorry for the long answer) Here is a diagram of what was done and what is installed.
in total, the lift turned out to be 8 cm. The size of the rubber. winter: 245.70 r16. summer 245.75 p16. The lift allows you to install wheels up to 265.70 p16. But!! it is necessary to move (if the engine is kd32, if you need to install wheels larger than 245.75 p16) the intercooler and automatic transmission cooling radiator, which are located under the front bumper.
 
Can you provide any information on the amount of lift that you were able to achieve and the parts used for your lift? I would also like to know the size of you tires.

I settled on the Elgrand because of the qd32 also. The older delicas had issues with earlier engine failure. I still think about getting another hiace but think the Nissan can do what I need.

Thanks
 
Finished the right side. applied the final 3 coats of epoxy primer. Basically a sandwich like this:
1 layer. acid soil
2 layer. acrylic primer.
3. layer. Fiberglass putty.
4. layer. finishing putty.
5. layer. 3 coats of epoxy primer.
6. layer. yet to come. This is Hamerite paint.
 
at the bottom and in hidden cavities, I processed the following layers:
1 layer. acid soil
2 layer. acrylic primer
3 layer. seam sealer.
4 layer. 3 coats of epoxy primer
5 layer. bituminous polymer mastic.
 
so it looks like you did a mixture of body lift and suspension lift. did you build your kit custom? Do you think it is possible to get similar results with only suspension lift?


Thanks
The set is made by hand. Used metal that was idle. Suspension lift only.. I don't know.. I lowered the front subframe in order to add space for the wheels. And he lifted the engine back to connect it to the automatic transmission without any problems. Rear suspension is easier. Since there you can pick up shock absorbers and springs above. There are cv joints in front, and it will not be possible to greatly increase the lift. In my case, I have a stock suspension. Springs, shock absorbers. I achieved the lift by lowering the subframe at the front and made a frame at the back.
 
Hello. Another surprise from Tractor.
Again, problems with engine speed began, he began to gas up himself. I checked the wiring on the engine, the sensors ..
One of these days I will replace the sensors with the injection pump ..
if it doesn’t help, then next year I plan to install a mechanical injection pump. (Injection pump housing from TD27t, plunger from QD32 and other alterations ...)
As a result: I will lose in power, I will get reliability ..
 
Hello.
about errors.
Decided to run a "stupid diagnosis".
1. Started the car.
2. Began to pull, twist the wiring on the injection pump and the engine.
The result of my every action the engine responded with a sharp jump in speed. Having connected the scanner, I found out what was bothering his engine speed sensor and the fuel pump speed sensor. having opened all the wiring, I found a very large number of "snot" and "twists", as if someone was learning to connect the wires o_O. in general, all the "snot" and "twisting" were removed, the chips and contacts were cleaned. I hid everything in a corrugated pipe and secured it tightly with nylon clamps. The problem is gone. the engine runs smoothly, no stalls, no errors.
I'm happy)
 
Well done. I have had experience of sorting out wiring 'Repaired' by others and wanted to set fire to the whole car...
 
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