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E51 The E51 Catalytic Converter Problem

Just had my front cats done and no problems with engine light , I think they put spacers on so the sensors think they are working as normal. I run on lpg so have taken all the worry away regarding the car issues .😎👍
 
Be aware if the front cats are de-cored, you may have an issue with the engine check light. You'd be better off getting the fronts replaced with high performance after market cats that won't break down if you're going to the trouble.
Cheers
 
Hi, I'm in nz. First of all no emissions test re wof here. Second I'm interested in where you got it done. I don't mind spending 300 bucks to get the front cats decored!

300 bucks is cheap, I paid £175 for the de-cored pipes and £200 labour. One thing to bear in mind is, if they de-core the CATs whilst still on the vehicle, they'll need to remove the retaining ring with a metal gauze on it, otherwise it could cause a rattle later on.

Regarding the EML light, if it comes on that can be dealt with universal spacers found on Amazon for around £10 a pair.

These should do... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07R32H6RK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
The engine warning light doesn't come on if front and/or rear cats are decored.

Under no circumstances should you fit spacers on front lambda probes... It isn't necessary, the engine light won't come on anyway, in fact fitting spacers on front probes is probably more likely to turn on the engine light. Fitting spacers on front probes will be detrimental to accuracy of fuelling.

On other make/model vehicles that have had cats decored spacers are sometimes fitted on rear probes to prevent the engine warning light coming on, never on front probes. Fitting spacers on rear probes can prevent the ECU detecting that the cats are not working (they wouldn't be working when they've been removed!).

Fitting spacers has the effect of slowing the signal response of sensors and making them read a leaner than actual mixture - maybe a good thing on rear probes because rear probes are really only there to check that cats are working properly, but never a good thing on front probes because front probes are there to steer the ECU to provide correct mixture for the engine. Fitting spacers on rear probes on Elgrands seem unnecessary because the ECU doesn't seem to generate errors for missing cats anyway, in which case the only reason for rear probes on Elgrands is to nod to the standards (which says rear probes have to be fitted to check cats are working).. never mind if the cat checking doesn't really work/function as the standards intended!
 
Just leaving this here.
In case you want your front cats decored at a fair price:-
Powerflow Cardiff
Cardiff Remap Ltd.
West Point Industrial Estate
Penarth Road
Llandough
Cardiff
CF118JQ
02921328023
cardiff@powerflowexhausts.co.uk
Ask for Paul.
Tell him Steve sent you.
And if you're happy with the price put a pound in a charity box on my behalf.
 
They do well to manage decoring front cats, there isn't enough space to swing a cat around in the areas where work needs to be done. Probably safe to say that here, won't be many cat lovers on this forum.
 
They do well to manage decoring front cats, there isn't enough space to swing a cat around in the areas where work needs to be done. Probably safe to say that here, won't be many cat lovers on this forum.

One guy on a facebook Elgrand forum reckons he can change out the front cats in 2 hours, and it's easily done?

Truth or bollocks?
 
One guy on a facebook Elgrand forum reckons he can change out the front cats in 2 hours, and it's easily done?

Truth or bollocks?
Absolutely no idea at all.
But what price experience eh?
Good luck to the man if he can.
 
One guy on a facebook Elgrand forum reckons he can change out the front cats in 2 hours, and it's easily done?

Truth or bollocks?

Maybe if he's super quick at dropping the lump down... otherwise even Steve from TojoMotors wants the van for the day to do the job.
I had mine done from a local known mechanic, reckoned he'd get it done in half a day but instead took all day.
 
Maybe if he's super quick at dropping the lump down... otherwise even Steve from TojoMotors wants the van for the day to do the job.
I had mine done from a local known mechanic, reckoned he'd get it done in half a day but instead took all day.

From all accounts everywhere, that's what I've heard. About a day. If bolts are snapped, make it 2.
 
From all accounts everywhere, that's what I've heard. About a day. If bolts are snapped, make it 2.

The issue is removing the heat shields around the CATs, on the nearside a few water pipes need removing to gain access to the one nut n bolt from the engine bay, the other two nuts can be accessed from underneath using long extensions. The heat shields need to bent around slightly in order to come out and once they're out it should be plane sailing thereafter...

If the EML light flags up after that you might need universal O2 sensor spacers found on amazon for £10, if it doesn't then enjoy the peace of mind knowing that the main culprits are out. ;)
 
One guy on a facebook Elgrand forum reckons he can change out the front cats in 2 hours, and it's easily done?

Truth or bollocks?
Don't know. Might also depend on what exactly they mean... E.g. have they done preliminary work such as removing other parts for access before they start the clock? Swap out for another pipe or does the time include decating the original exhaust they removed? Guestimate of best case scenario or average time in their experience?

It took me longer than 2 hours just to decat the fronts when I'd already removed them from the car.. but I cut the heat shields off, cut the cats to decore them, had to reweld the cats then weld the heat shields back on.

Would be interested to see the Facebook comments, can you post a link?
 
One guy on a facebook Elgrand forum reckons he can change out the front cats in 2 hours, and it's easily done?

Truth or bollocks?
Brute force and ignorance? Gorilla with an angle grinder?

There are many car maintenance tasks that can be done quickly. Its whether you want them done on a car you care about.

Based on the experience of Steve at Tojo, Powerflow and Infinity exhausts as well as others I'd be cautious of that claim. Even decoring them up on a 4 post lift takes longer than that (Need to take care with the bits).
So either he is confusing it with the rears or his engine bay now resembles Princess Di's last motor.
 
Bollocks,
Took 2 experienced exhaust blokes 6 hours to strip the exhaust off our e51....
2.5 hours to build and fit the stainless steel replacement 👍
(No cats in new exhaust)😎
 
Just got rid of my secondary cats, with stainless pipes, immediately feels better reving, with the added bonus of not worrying if the engine will blow
 
H
Bollocks,
Took 2 experienced exhaust blokes 6 hours to strip the exhaust off our e51....
2.5 hours to build and fit the stainless steel replacement 👍
(No cats in new exhaust)😎
How much and where from
 
THIS IS NOT FORUM LORE. THIS IS NOT A MYTH. THERE HAVE BEEN MANY DOCUMENTED INCIDENTS WHERE OWNERS HAVE HAD THEIR ENGINE BLOW UP BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

CHECK OUT THIS THREAD FOR PROOF

LIST OF AFFECTED MEMBERS

The problem

A widely known issue with the Nissan Elgrand E51 is that the rear cats get blocked causing catastrophic
damage to the engine.

The problem starts with the fact that the E51 has a QUAD CAT SYSTEM. This means there is a PRIMARY and a SECONDARY catalytic converter on EACH BANK of the V6 engine.

The PRIMARY cats are the ROOT CAUSE of problem. Through use, after heating up and cooling down, they start to deteriorate. This happens with ANY ceramic catalytic converter when they reach the end of the their life. As the PRIMARY cats starts to break down and fall apart, the debris is pushed back through the exhaust. At this point, they come into contact with the SECONDARY cats, which creates a blockage.

As more and more of the PRIMARY falls apart, the blockage will prevent any exhaust gasses getting out. The exhaust gases (and dust particles) then build up pressure and go to the only place they can, back into the engine. It doesn't take a mechanic to know that if you put exhaust gas mixed with catalytic converter debris back into an engine, it's not going to last long.

So, that covers the problem, what can you do about it?

There are 3 main options.

1/ DECORE the SECONDARY CATS. This is a simple process. You remove the secondary cats, cut an opening in the top, smash the internals out, weld the opening shut again and re-fit them. This removes the point at which the debris from the PRIMARY cats will get stuck creating a blockage. The debris is just pushed out the back of the exhaust. THIS IS NOT A 100% SAFE OPTION. Debris can still trap itself within the primary cat or the mid box of the exhaust. Although removing the rear cars reduces the chances of catastrophic failure exponentially... it will not 100% stop it from happening.

2/ Remove the SECONDARY CATS. Same principle as option 1, but you remove the cats altogether and replace with a straight through pipe. This is more costly than option 1, BUT what it means is that when it comes to MOT time, you still have the cats to fit to the vehicle if there are ever any issues. As with option 1, this is not a 100% failsafe option for the same reason outlined above.

3/ By far the most expensive option, but still an availability if you have the funds to allow it. Replace the WHOLE system (Manifold back) with a custom made stainless exhaust with single stage, high flow metal sports cat. Dig deep for this one, but the noise will be worth it :) - This option will 100% remove the risk of damage caused by the standard catalytic converter failure problem.

REGARDLESS OF WHAT METHOD YOU CHOOSE - YOU MUST CHECK FOR DEBRIS FROM FAILING FRONT CATS AND INSPECT THEM BEFORE YOU MOVE FORWARD. IF THEY HAVE ALREADY STARTED TO DETERIORATE, YOU SHOULD HAVE THE WHOLE SYSTEM REPLACED AND THE ENGINE HEALTH CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL.

But what about.......?

You will fail an MOT if you remove the rear cats and the tester knows they should be there. So if you do fit straight through pipes, keep the cats and then you can fit them again at a later date if you need to.
If you go for option 1, make sure the access hole is cut in the top of the cat so that the head shield will cover the weld when it's sealed up again. If the hole is on the bottom, and the tester can see that they have been tampered with, he'll fail it.

Emissions are NOT affected by removal of the secondary cats. They are only part of the system due to the strict "cold starting" emissions policies in Japan. In the UK the emissions test is done on a warm engine, and therefore the secondary cats serve ZERO purpose.

Is this legal?

I don't know what PC Plod can do about you removing/modifying the cats. But, if you tell an MOT tester that you have modified the cats in any way, and it fails, then technically the car is not road worthy. We know this is bollocks. It'll still pass the emissions test, it will still drive perfectly OK, and you have removed the risk of having your engine blow up when belting down the motorway at no more than 70 (of course).

The choice on what you do is up to you. Keep them if you want. But then every time you drive your E51 you will be wondering when the engine is going to blow up. I know from a personal point of view, I'd rather take the risk with the MOT tester than have catastrophic engine failure and a £4500 engine rebuild bill.

I heard about a Recall for this problem!?

The recall has NOTHING to do with this problem. All it will do is prolong the inevitable. The recall was put out to adjust the fuelling. If your car is subject to the recall, the engine map was putting too much fuel into the engine. This meant that excess fuel was getting blown out of the engine following combustion and then igniting in the exhaust system due to the heat. This meant that the exhaust was getting a lot hotter than it should causing premature deterioration of the primary cats.
With the recall in place, the engine will not overfuel... but it does not mean that the primary cats will not start to disintegrate over time.

There have been at least 2 instances that I know of where a car that was NOT on the recall list has had the engine fail because of blocked cats.

Why does this need doing?

Cars built for EU and UK roads are designed with the climate in mind. Therefore, as part of the manufacture process, there are treatments applied to the bare metal to prevent the chassis corroding. JDM cars are NOT done, because the climate in Japan is very different to ours.

The underseal is required to ensure that your car doesn't turn into a pile of rust over the winter. More importantly, because you are doing this AFTERMARKET, it is something that is seen as temporary, not permanent. The products applied will, over time, wear off or get damaged thus leaving untreated metal to come into contact with salt and moisture.

The better the product you use, the longer it's life. There may even be products out there that come with a "life of the car guarantee"... but I'm sure they'll cost more than £400!

With that in mind, discuss the options available with the garage you chose for your underseal and discuss repeat applications and how often they will be required. If they want your continued business, they will offer all options and tailor the service to your requirements and budget.
Im using straight through pipes I managed to source from Australia
 
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