Mr Chops NE51 Rider (RIP mobile data plans)

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#41
Once again I managed to talk myself out of trying to install the cameras in the mirrors (I still don't know exactly how to get the wires from the doors into the cabin), however, today I did manage to get another little project done that's been hanging around for some time...changing the stupid Japanese-time clock.

I bought a clock off eBay back in May and nothing's really stopped me getting it done other than being unable to decide between taking a power feed from one of the interior lights (and thereby changing the way it works), or to run a dedicated feed from behind the dash. As the interior lights already seem complicated enough to my old noggin, as well as being all that Canbus stuff, I thought better to leave well alone.

As usual I was too busy 'doing' to take enough pictures, which I always regret. Ho hum.

So first of all I needed to know if the clock would actually fit in the right place and what mods if any I'd have to do to the overhead panel. Here's the main unit removed from it's plastic housing showing the two vacuum fluorescent displays (VFDs):



Losing this clock does of course mean losing the moon roof locked indicator, but who can't live without that.

After removing the new clock from it's chunky plastic bezel and doing some measuring I could see that the new clock would still be way too high if I bent the old clock's pins and pushed it down onto the board underneath. It would be much too high; it's almost 14mm even after snipping off quite a lot of hot glue. The only way would be to snip the old clock display pins and remove it. I plugged it all back in after snipping the clock out to make sure everything still worked as expected and it did.

After some careful measuring and making a bit of a template I was ready to position the new clock on the board. Sitting on top of a chip and diode on the main board it would be easiest to stick it to a bed of hot glue to allow it to be levelled correctly. So here it is, and it's nearly spot-on level.



I routed the wires where they wouldn't be trapped and set about fitting the small board carrying the clock adjust/mode buttons. I'd seen someone before on ElgrandOC.uk who'd drilled a couple of holes in the side of the interior light so that the switches could be accessed by popping the light lens off, so I decided to follow suit. More careful measuring with my new vernier calipers (seriously, if you don't have any then make your life easier by getting some!) and I then popped a couple of 8mm holes in the passenger's light well. Test fit...lovely:



And to fix the board in place, yep... more hot-snot:



By now I had to go to Halfrauds to get the youngest some L-plates so while I was there I picked up a double connector plug to make future removal easier if required. The unit measures voltage via a green wire so I attached this and the positive feed wire to the positive connector spade. With the connector on the unit was done. On to the power and ground.

As there's plenty of bare metal in the roof recess I screwed a wire with an eye connector into a new hole for the earth. Next was the power feed.

It had to be connected to ACC really as that's how the factory clock is wired and I like the way it comes on when just listening to the stereo. Bottom half of the dash out then.

Remove the lower dash (2003 Rider)

1. Apply the parking brake and...ok, that's bollocks, skip that
2. Undo the black plastic nut holding the driver's kick-panel in place
3. Pull or lever the kick-panel rearwards to un-clip it. Remove it
4. Undo the four 10mm bolts securing the fuel flap and bonnet release levers. Pull them rearwards and move out of the way
5. Pull the lower panel rearwards, there are about four clips that hold it, then let it hang down being careful not to put strain on any wires

So with that done I could see from last time that I already have a nicely accessible ACC connection. I tagged on a fuse holder and a long length of red wire, routing it in front of the steering column tube and over the top of the fuse box:





Then I routed it out from the side of the dash up to the pillar (two screws in the handle, pop off the clips and pull up to remove):



Then behind the front edge of the head lining to the mirror. Here are the wires ready to be plugged into the other half of the new connector:



The temperature probe was left pointing forward and taped to the mirror so it doesn't rattle or vibrate (can't see it behind the cover):



OK OK, but what does it look like?! It looks great. I'm really happy with it, although my only small gripe is that the numbers should be 10mm tall, not 8mm. It can be on any of the three modes constantly, or set to switch between all three automatically. I'm going to try just the clock to start with.

Clock (always catch it with pips missing!):


Voltage:


Temperature:


And here's everything all back together and working:


This clock's listing is unavailable now but the same seller has another listing for the same unit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycl...aterproof-Plane-/131604104920?var=&hash=item0

Hopefully someone finds this useful :)
 
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MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#42
Also today I took off this coolant system bleed thing as it was leaking. Gave it a good cleanup and checked for splits (none thankfully). Took some emery cloth to the pipe as it was a bit rough with the corrosion and tried to get everything as smooth as possible. Finished it off with a new 30mm stainless hose clip. Will test for leaks tomorrow.

As it was, leaking a bit of coolant:
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#44
After making an impulse purchase yesterday of a set of DRLs I got some time today to fit them. They're Ring 'Lyra', come on when the engine's running and go dim when the lights are on.

Unfortunately due to their size, as well as the position of the wires leaving the units, places to fit them were limited. Thanks to the kind folks who answered by plea for advice on which position was best, it confirmed by thought that lower and wider is best. I would have liked to have gone even wider but bars behind the grille would have made then stick out horribly.

Here's where I went for in the end..


Fitting was fairly straight-forward; white wire with inline fuse goes directly to the battery, there's a black earth, and finally a yellow to splice into the +ve side of the sidelight circuit.

As it happens, when I removed the illuminated front number plate holder I left a length of wire that was already spliced into the lights so I soldered the yellow wire to that and finished it off with heat-shrink. It probably took me just as long to sort out the messy horn wires and polish up and move the horns as it did to fit the lights.

Cool bonus included: there's a pack of 8 AA cells in the box with a 'Try me' switch, which will be a great 12v supply to check bulbs etc.

Here's the horn wiring before I changed it, and bottom left is some of my DRL wiring..

And who leaves tie-wraps like that!?! :shake:
 
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MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#45
Right, just managed to sort out the broken images above (hopefully).

Cameras, part 2.

I managed to summon the determination to have a go at installing the door mirror cameras today. I'd been putting it off after seeing how difficult it would be just to get the camera wire from inside the mirror into the door. It's taken me about 5 hours and I had to leave the first one with just a couple of wires to connect. Very frustrating.

Got the door panel off with no clip casualties!


Relieved to see the speaker in perfect condition


Mirror and indicator wires


Finding a flat spot under the mirror


No going back now! The cameras come with a perfectly sized hole saw




The hardest part was actually getting the camera wire (chopped as the plug is too big to get through anything) through the wing, into the engine bay then into the cabin.


With a garden cane, a telescopic magnet pick up tool, some string and a bolt (and lots of swearing) I was finally able to get the wire into the engine bay.

Getting it through the bulkhead into the cabin was so hard and I managed to pull the grommet off and can't get it back on. No nasty engine smells yet but when I've threaded the other camera wire through I'll fix it back in.
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#46
Finished the passenger camera tonight then, all it needed was to solder three wires together, connect the plug to the mixer, secure the wires behind the dash and put the dash back together. Took me about 20 minutes.

Realise now that the camera was in at the wrong angle when I secured it (with hot glue) so needs a little bit of adjustment. It's actually 90 degrees out from where I thought it would be.
But anyway it'll be interesting to see how it feels using it tomorrow.



Can't wait to get the driver's side fitted now, and then probably a front one.
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#47
Adjusted the camera, looks like this now:



Can't swing it any further forwards but wouldn't be able to see any more of the bumper anyway.
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#48
Had the decat pipes made and fitted today. Three studs sheared so they were replaced by bolts.





Old cats with ropy heat shield, partly secured with wire. Both my Micras shed their heat shields after about 12-14 years, which were ripped off and not replaced. I remember losing part of one on the A38.


Inside the one you can actually see the core of. Think this is the front cat side




To me they seem very slightly restricted but not to the degree that would cause engine failure. I assume looking at this that the front cats are still fine.

It's all about peace of mind. I know it won't be the rear cats that grenade the engine..
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#52
It's more money than everyone else's I've seen on here, but I know the guy and have heard good things about them. I don't mind paying if someone's going to do a good job.
 

chris wills

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#53
i found that my cameras were all out of line after i fitted mine too, had to get the mrs to sit in and tell me when they were straight as i turned them, i had to solder 5 wires as mine have led lights built in, wired mine up so that when you unlock the car the mirrors unfold and the cameras turn on lighting up the area around the car, perfect for late nights loading the kids etc in.
 

Kev_R

Active Member
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#56
I didn't, I took the upper grille off and could just get my arms in where I needed to. I didn't know how to remove it
My grille is in two parts upper being about 4 inches deep and then a solid bar extending below the indicators across about an inch deep and then a lower grille which is definitely removed in your picture. Perhaps it's because mine is a first edition. View attachment 1136
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#57
I've still not got round to fitting the second camera as I know it'll take me the best part of a day to do it.

I've not done a lot else to the bus recently that involves going outside. I did see an advert on Facebook for a phone mount that pushes into the CD slot in the head-unit.

But why would I buy one of those when I have a 3D printer! I measured the Pumpkin's slot size and check around it for any obstructions, then knocked up a design that is tailor made for my phone. I printed the first test with some PET-G I have been using but fancy doing a black one next.



The angle of the head-unit is perfect for the phone which sits quite snugly in the holder.

I would have taken a photo with my phone in it, but that was the only camera to hand.
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#58
Although the first attempt came out ok I wanted to make a black one to fit in better with the dash. The PLA printed a lot nicer than the PET-G.



And seeing as the road flare was removed in Japan I decided to print a replacement. This was modelled in Tinkercad in two pieces. It's hollow and the top comes off so that it can hold stuff.





A zipped .stl file of the flare is available here. I modelled two different styles of cap, both found in Japanese cars.
 

MrChops

Here for life
Premium Member
E51 Owner
#59
Decided to give the tailgate some long overdue love today. It's become covered in tiny orange spots so I hit it with a clay bar which as always did a great job.

The panel areas inside the Nissan badge were however pretty shocking and with no way of getting them spotlessly clean I pulled the badge off. No fishing line required as the badge came off really easily. Being the wrong badge from a different vehicle it didn't have flat areas for double-sided tape, instead some thin strips were added around the edges where they touched the panel. This was actually a godsend as it required very little in the way of cleaning to get the glue off. There are some marks in the paint though that probably need flatting out, the clay bar having no affect on them.

The badge is identical in size and shape to the Juke parked next to it (the lettering is horizontal when the badge is tipped back a bit, like it should be mounted on a slightly sloping grille) . It has two snapped off mounting posts.

I like the look. Won't be losing the Elgrand lettering though, which the Mrs agrees with. Also added a new hand wash only sticker while I was at it.

 

MrRob_in

Part of the furniture (please de-cat your e51/2)
Staff member
Premium Member
E51 Expert
E51 Owner
#60
I think loosing the Nissan badge neatens up the appearance and the big ELGRAND across the clear Rider lights is so much more subtle than on the standard red lens.